Saturday morning and my first free weekend. With Yanis, Delphine, and Brook the driver from MVP, we headed to climb to the churches of Mariam Korkor and Daniel Korkor, which is the cliff top churches on the mountain directly opposite as viewed from my Lodge room. The drive to Mageb was quick, picking up water and Haftu, a guide recommended by Sarah. A short drive out of town, we entered the road to the climb starting point. The cliffs looked even higher close up and we were going up them, but how? was I fit enough or was the challenge as I found out due to lack of oxygen.
We set off on the 3 part climb, paid our 100 Birr each for entrance to the church. We then went up a narrow gorge with loose rock, about 20 min, although I had to stop every 10 m which made it even longer. This was part 1, a climb of about 200 m at a 60 angle. There climb was narrow enough that we were able to hold onto teh sides. Conming out on a plateau, we found the site of first attempt to build a church. During the ascent we had been joined by an elderly guy who accompanied us for the rest of the trek.
A number of men and women were coming down after a long night in the church due to a service. We also had encountered a German but living in Brazil, Yohanis , whom we had met at the Lodge and was embarking on a 4 day trek with guide and donkey in the Gheralta region. He had spent the night camping at the church site.
The next part of the climb was another more scary climb up a rock face that was at about 60-80o angle. As i sdiscovered thsi was te male route. Only holding points were the rocks themselves and footholds worn into the rocks. Another slow climb due to my lack of oxygen. So I managed to get to the next ledge with the help of the guide and elderly gentleman.
From there it was basically an easy slope up to the almost top of the plateau where the church was located. Soem areas near teh church reminded m eof the books that have the "100" most challenged golf holes in the world - this woule be one of them.
The Mariam Korkor church has a 75 year old priest who after checking th ereceipt of our ticket opened up the lock on the church door. The church itself was built into the cliff face. After removing our shoes, and rolling our socks over our trousers to minimize fleas getting up our legs and a quick spray of insect repellant we entered - one entry for males and one entry for females. Inside the church there were 4 rock hewn columsn remaining that suporte dteh roof with paintings some what faded as they were over 1400 years old. The church was devided into 3 areas, i) general seating, ii) a priest area and iii) holy of holy's where a copy of the Ark of the Covenant was placed and which we could not eneter. Haftu explained the paintings and we sat in the semi-darkness absorbing it all.
We then left the church put on our shoes and walked around the cliff face to another smaller church - daniel Korkor (about 6 x 6 m) built into the rocks. The priest unlocked the door, no larger than 0.5 by 1 m, through ,after removing our shoes, we squeezed in. The paintings were in a much better state and we could see all the colours. However, no flash photography was allowed so the pictures I took were the best I could get. We then passed throug ha small tunnel into a smaller chamber which was described as the holy of holy's. Minimal wall paintings but non the less interesting. We left this small church and made our way further along the cliff face to an open cave in which baptisms occurred.
Back around the way we came we climbed a bit further up to a series of caves in which children of about 12-14 years of age lived (in priest training) and a claimed 120 year old bedridden priest - a predecessor of the current priest. The ancient priest rose with help from his bed to greet us. The room he was in was dark and smelt of olive wood smoke from a small charcoal fire burning in the corner. Further back in the cave was another room for the 2 women who looked after him - one of them a nun. I cant imagine living in a cave , smelling of smoke, and no good ventilation.
After about an hour in the church area we headed on down to the car. This time we went by the "female" route to avoid the "scarey" part experienced on the climb up. This was a gradual descent circular descent.
We then reached the car and paid the elderly guide. Haftu worked as part of the Gheralta Guide Association and for a reasonable (at least to me) 250 birr for the 3 of us (about $5 each) he had provided good explanations over 4 hrs. We had to pay this at the Association office in Mageb. In Mageb we had planned to visit the market, but as we were stopped we were mobbed as "ferenje", kids asking for birr.
Saturday 27 August 2011
Settled and on board with Millenium Village Project
The first two days at the Millenium office were hectic. A driver had been arranged and Yanis, Delphine, Mullo (Community Health), Sayit (Health Sector worker) and myself headed out to the 3 laboratories that I will be auditing and implementing recommendations. My expectations were zero and went with open mind.
The first laboratory was at Koraro about 28 km drive along unpaved roads ( all roads are upaved) to the west of Hawzen. The laboratory is based in a Health Centre, common to all village areas, which serve a population of about 25,000. The health centre was off the main road and at the end of 1.5 km dirt track. After that we headed back to Mageb, a town about 9 km west of Hawzen which also has a laboratory.
Finally , on the following day we visited Hawzen Health Centre which has laboartory, probably the best I have seen.
We also managed to visit 3 Health posts near Hawzen that cater for about 5,000 people each with ante-natal care, general ahealth advice and Rapid Diagnostic Testing for malaria. Near one health post we visited a church which had holy water running out of the hill side.
Enjoyed tow days of lunches at Ethiopian restraunts whic serve only Ethiopian food. How teh kitchens operate is an eye opener, all heating is over charcoal making kitchens very hot, and preparation is done in 2 or 3 rooms, depending on space.
I am finally settling in after two days, cultural shock is over as where I am is for the next 6 mths and it is what it is. What dissapoints me is that everyone is out for money especially from us "ferenje". Walking back from work Friday evening we were accompanied most of the way by a 17 year old girl who spoke reasonable English. We had in fact taken a back street to avoid the singing Ashende girls wanting money. She wanted to be a doctor. As we turned into the Lodge she asked us for money for books. We could see it coming but it spoiled the previous 15 min of chat and interaction. We offered to help her with her English but she was non-commital.
The first laboratory was at Koraro about 28 km drive along unpaved roads ( all roads are upaved) to the west of Hawzen. The laboratory is based in a Health Centre, common to all village areas, which serve a population of about 25,000. The health centre was off the main road and at the end of 1.5 km dirt track. After that we headed back to Mageb, a town about 9 km west of Hawzen which also has a laboratory.
Finally , on the following day we visited Hawzen Health Centre which has laboartory, probably the best I have seen.
We also managed to visit 3 Health posts near Hawzen that cater for about 5,000 people each with ante-natal care, general ahealth advice and Rapid Diagnostic Testing for malaria. Near one health post we visited a church which had holy water running out of the hill side.
Enjoyed tow days of lunches at Ethiopian restraunts whic serve only Ethiopian food. How teh kitchens operate is an eye opener, all heating is over charcoal making kitchens very hot, and preparation is done in 2 or 3 rooms, depending on space.
I am finally settling in after two days, cultural shock is over as where I am is for the next 6 mths and it is what it is. What dissapoints me is that everyone is out for money especially from us "ferenje". Walking back from work Friday evening we were accompanied most of the way by a 17 year old girl who spoke reasonable English. We had in fact taken a back street to avoid the singing Ashende girls wanting money. She wanted to be a doctor. As we turned into the Lodge she asked us for money for books. We could see it coming but it spoiled the previous 15 min of chat and interaction. We offered to help her with her English but she was non-commital.
The trip to Hawzen
My project manager Yanis Ben Amor from Earth Institute at Columbia University had arrived Tuesday night and togetehr Wednesday morning we checked out and headed to the airport for the flight to Mekele. Enetring the aiprort an dterminal involved itinerary and identification check, baggage search and pad down. Lining up involved another intinerary and identification check before actual check in. This went reasonably smoothly as after that we just walked through to the general terminal area. Another hand luggage check brought us into the gate area. The terminal was simple and as found in most buildings very few lights on as power was conserved.
Our flight was delayed about 45 min for unknown reasons but we got off the ground in a turbo prop 50 seater and had a smooth flight through some specatacular cloud formations to Mekele. Landing at the airport we then picked up our luggage and exited through another group of Ashende girls singing and asking for money. We were met by Millenium driver Brook. We piled into the truck and began the drive (ultimately 2.5 hrs) to Hawzen.
The drive through some spectacular countryside and passing through a number of rural towns. I saw many groves of eucalypts. Along and on the roads were donkeys, sheep and goats as well as groups of people and again the ashende girls dancing and singing blocking our truck. The road north was mostly paved and it was only the last 45 min that was gravel road. We arrived in Hawzen, the third oldest town in Ethiopia. It was also the site of a government air raid in 1997 on the market that killed over 2500 people.
Wednesday was market day in the region and so driving through 2 of the towns we were greeted by people around open air markets, bartering and buying and some taking delivery of food aid.
Hawzen is a typical rural town with only one modern 6 storey building that I saw - a hotel. The MVP office was opposite. The MVP office was a cluster of 3 long building around a courtyard, in which offices were base. I met Dr Aregawe who heads up the MVP in Koraro region. A brief introduction with others and fellow Pulse volunteer Delphine Charles.
We were then driven to Gheralta Lodge, about 5 min drive (20-25 min walk to office) to the west of the town. It is a cluster of building or lodges from which you walk to the main building for dinner, drinks and general relaxtion like reading and chatting. Many tourists stay in this lodge as they pass through the region. It was developed by an Italian couple, Erica and Silvio Rizzotti (http://www.gheraltalodgetigrai.com/).
The sights, sounds and aromas in the villages will need some exploration in future weeks.
Our flight was delayed about 45 min for unknown reasons but we got off the ground in a turbo prop 50 seater and had a smooth flight through some specatacular cloud formations to Mekele. Landing at the airport we then picked up our luggage and exited through another group of Ashende girls singing and asking for money. We were met by Millenium driver Brook. We piled into the truck and began the drive (ultimately 2.5 hrs) to Hawzen.
The drive through some spectacular countryside and passing through a number of rural towns. I saw many groves of eucalypts. Along and on the roads were donkeys, sheep and goats as well as groups of people and again the ashende girls dancing and singing blocking our truck. The road north was mostly paved and it was only the last 45 min that was gravel road. We arrived in Hawzen, the third oldest town in Ethiopia. It was also the site of a government air raid in 1997 on the market that killed over 2500 people.
Wednesday was market day in the region and so driving through 2 of the towns we were greeted by people around open air markets, bartering and buying and some taking delivery of food aid.
Hawzen is a typical rural town with only one modern 6 storey building that I saw - a hotel. The MVP office was opposite. The MVP office was a cluster of 3 long building around a courtyard, in which offices were base. I met Dr Aregawe who heads up the MVP in Koraro region. A brief introduction with others and fellow Pulse volunteer Delphine Charles.
We were then driven to Gheralta Lodge, about 5 min drive (20-25 min walk to office) to the west of the town. It is a cluster of building or lodges from which you walk to the main building for dinner, drinks and general relaxtion like reading and chatting. Many tourists stay in this lodge as they pass through the region. It was developed by an Italian couple, Erica and Silvio Rizzotti (http://www.gheraltalodgetigrai.com/).
The sights, sounds and aromas in the villages will need some exploration in future weeks.
Wednesday 24 August 2011
Some defining moments - meeting the boss
Another early morning rainstorm. I packed my second suitcase to drop off at GSK House while I am up north. I called Yenene (another "GSK" approved taxi driver) and he was at the hotel within 5 min. He took me around to GSK House. Heard from Sarah that Dr Awash would be in the office today. I dropped off my suitcase and we headed to the office. Met Laura, Bridget and Hiwot on the road heading to coffee as power was out. We sat at a shop for coffee and chai near MVP office and chatted for a while until the music came on which indicated that power was restored to the area.
I met Dr Awash, head of MVP in Ethiopia, a distinguished doctor. We discussed the project and what I though it would be doing. Not to dissimilar to the brief of bringing some system and organisation to the 4 laboratories in the MVP cluster. I was particularly interested in his explanation of how the health system operates.
The health system in Tigray as in other provinces is a tiered system. Starting with a major teaching hospital in the capital in Mekele and a few other smaller hospitals to district hospital in the larger cities, district hopsitals in some towns, to Health Centers in large villages and finally health posts in villages serving about 5,000 people. th ehealth centers serve up to 5 villages or about 25,000 people. The Health Posts have maybe 2 Health Extension Workers who provide programme support and initial oversight of patients. The Health Centers have a number of trained health workers who provide effective diagnosis (where appropriate) and treatment and in the case of Millennmu Villages at Koraro, Rapid Diagnosis Tests (RDT). A positive test result is immediately treated where negative results in referal to a larger testing site.
At the core of Health Extension Program implementation is a sizeable cadre of new Health Extension Workers (HEWs), who are trained in a one-year programme to implement a Health Extension Package of 16 healthcare activities at the kebele (village) level. By 2010, 30,000 health extension workers (HEWs), almost all young women from the communities they serve, will be trained and distributed in pairs to live and work at the village-level throughout the country.
The HEP (Health Extension program) promotes four areas of care: Disease Prevention and Control, Family Health, Hygiene and Environmental Sanitation, and Health Education and Communication. HEWs spend 75 percent of their time visiting families in their homes and performing outreach activities in the community. They spend the remaining 25 percent of their time providing services at the health posts, including giving immunizations and injectable contraceptives, among other health and educational services.
I also met Alem, Sarahs boss who showed me some of his travel pictures and told me that his sister and her husband live in Melbourne.
I met Dr Awash, head of MVP in Ethiopia, a distinguished doctor. We discussed the project and what I though it would be doing. Not to dissimilar to the brief of bringing some system and organisation to the 4 laboratories in the MVP cluster. I was particularly interested in his explanation of how the health system operates.
The health system in Tigray as in other provinces is a tiered system. Starting with a major teaching hospital in the capital in Mekele and a few other smaller hospitals to district hospital in the larger cities, district hopsitals in some towns, to Health Centers in large villages and finally health posts in villages serving about 5,000 people. th ehealth centers serve up to 5 villages or about 25,000 people. The Health Posts have maybe 2 Health Extension Workers who provide programme support and initial oversight of patients. The Health Centers have a number of trained health workers who provide effective diagnosis (where appropriate) and treatment and in the case of Millennmu Villages at Koraro, Rapid Diagnosis Tests (RDT). A positive test result is immediately treated where negative results in referal to a larger testing site.
At the core of Health Extension Program implementation is a sizeable cadre of new Health Extension Workers (HEWs), who are trained in a one-year programme to implement a Health Extension Package of 16 healthcare activities at the kebele (village) level. By 2010, 30,000 health extension workers (HEWs), almost all young women from the communities they serve, will be trained and distributed in pairs to live and work at the village-level throughout the country.
The HEP (Health Extension program) promotes four areas of care: Disease Prevention and Control, Family Health, Hygiene and Environmental Sanitation, and Health Education and Communication. HEWs spend 75 percent of their time visiting families in their homes and performing outreach activities in the community. They spend the remaining 25 percent of their time providing services at the health posts, including giving immunizations and injectable contraceptives, among other health and educational services.
I also met Alem, Sarahs boss who showed me some of his travel pictures and told me that his sister and her husband live in Melbourne.
Monday 22 August 2011
Becoming ethiopian
This morning got up with the intention to go for a long walk or do gym. A rain storm at 5 am put that notion to bed.
Instead had beakfast, called Wendensen, the local "GSK" approved taxi driver and got myself just after 8 am to the internet shops near edna mall, opposite the Medhane Alem Cathedral.
I went in to the only open shop of 4, and was told that the modems were 1700 - 1900 birr ( about $120). Nearly feel over as didnt expect it to be so much. Apologised and retreated to the ATM in the adjacent mall and luckly got some money out. Went back only to find that shop closed and noteh ropen, The cost was higher at 1955 birr and afre some failed negotiation bought it. After the paper work was filled in went upstairs to the Ethiopian Telecommunication office to register the modem - another 230 birr. After about 20 min back to the shop to buy the pre-paid cards ( 700 birr for 4GB a month) whilc is recharged on the first of every month. Needed about 2 mths worth as these cards may not be available up north.
I had been watching all the people entering the cathedral grounds opposite for the end of the fast days and celebrating the feast day. I wandered over and watched awhile - so passionate are people about their christianity, I was impressed. Later having a coffee the ashedne girls came singing and dancing along the street.
(its one not too dissimilar to what I saw). The festival Ashenda is a Tigraian traditional festival which takes place in August to mark the ending of fasting called filseta. This event is mostly for girls and young women, which they await very eagerly every year. It is unique to the people in the state of Tigrai which is in northern Ethiopia. The name of the festival "Ashenda" comes from the name of a tall grass that the girls make into a skirt and wear it around their waist as a decoration.
i got into teh office for teh first time and meet up with Bridget and Laura and was introduced to all the folks. The office is located in Haya Hayulet area. It is a fascinating area with clothes shops and other household items, live sheep and goats everywhere.
We went for lunch ( Birkti, Laura, Bridget and myself ) down the muddy and water filled street. We passesd a 24 hr condom stall and finally made it to a restaraunt which served kitfo (raw meat) and Tibs ( cooked meat) wrapped in enjera and dipped in a spicey sauce. The restaraunt had a hut where men were cutting raw meat from hooks into pieces to be served. We sat in a courtyard area and placed an order - the cooked meat was a bit dry but tasty with the sauce. We then strolled back and sat in a coffee shop for a while, watching kids wsh cars, shoeshine boys offer to do our shoes and a couple of beggars.
It was an intersting day, immersing more into ethiopian culture.
Instead had beakfast, called Wendensen, the local "GSK" approved taxi driver and got myself just after 8 am to the internet shops near edna mall, opposite the Medhane Alem Cathedral.
I went in to the only open shop of 4, and was told that the modems were 1700 - 1900 birr ( about $120). Nearly feel over as didnt expect it to be so much. Apologised and retreated to the ATM in the adjacent mall and luckly got some money out. Went back only to find that shop closed and noteh ropen, The cost was higher at 1955 birr and afre some failed negotiation bought it. After the paper work was filled in went upstairs to the Ethiopian Telecommunication office to register the modem - another 230 birr. After about 20 min back to the shop to buy the pre-paid cards ( 700 birr for 4GB a month) whilc is recharged on the first of every month. Needed about 2 mths worth as these cards may not be available up north.I had been watching all the people entering the cathedral grounds opposite for the end of the fast days and celebrating the feast day. I wandered over and watched awhile - so passionate are people about their christianity, I was impressed. Later having a coffee the ashedne girls came singing and dancing along the street.
(its one not too dissimilar to what I saw). The festival Ashenda is a Tigraian traditional festival which takes place in August to mark the ending of fasting called filseta. This event is mostly for girls and young women, which they await very eagerly every year. It is unique to the people in the state of Tigrai which is in northern Ethiopia. The name of the festival "Ashenda" comes from the name of a tall grass that the girls make into a skirt and wear it around their waist as a decoration.i got into teh office for teh first time and meet up with Bridget and Laura and was introduced to all the folks. The office is located in Haya Hayulet area. It is a fascinating area with clothes shops and other household items, live sheep and goats everywhere.
We went for lunch ( Birkti, Laura, Bridget and myself ) down the muddy and water filled street. We passesd a 24 hr condom stall and finally made it to a restaraunt which served kitfo (raw meat) and Tibs ( cooked meat) wrapped in enjera and dipped in a spicey sauce. The restaraunt had a hut where men were cutting raw meat from hooks into pieces to be served. We sat in a courtyard area and placed an order - the cooked meat was a bit dry but tasty with the sauce. We then strolled back and sat in a coffee shop for a while, watching kids wsh cars, shoeshine boys offer to do our shoes and a couple of beggars.
It was an intersting day, immersing more into ethiopian culture.
Sunday 21 August 2011
Day 2 - Settling in and familiarisation
Well after a night of chanting and dogs barking this morning, I had planned to walk down to the centre of town - about 4 km. But the rains came and so decided after a quick search of what to do, to go to the National Museum, primarily to see "Lucy". The museum was an old building - in dire need of renovation. Lucy was in the basement floor while the other floors were a mix of modern and historical artefacts and art. What can I say - saw it all in 30 mins.
The rain was still coming down so I decided to walk to the taxi rank about 200 metres down the road. I was accosted by first one then a second young men. The first later showed my a uide ID card, and was 21 , while the second was about 25, both students, struggling to live and pay rent, utilities and food of $150 per month. They stuck to me like glue, suggesting I visit a couple of churches. Well I decided to do that - the first was the Church of St Mary's a mix of Ethiopian Ortodox ( major part of church) and a second smaller part was Coptic. The mass was finishing as we entered. There has been at least a week of fasting during the day which was over and tonight would be a final big celebration. Around the church courtyard sat many people out of the rain under cover.
After visiting the church we continued our walk down the road, even with light rain and torrents of water rushin down the road and open drain pits which I need to avoid. I was struck by the number of people selling many things as well as beggars, people with deformities, blind, mothers with babies...all remaining in the rain with various degrees of clothing, filthy dirty, sandals for foot coverings. It is something I am not familiar back home, but can understand their plight as the economy cannot support these people, predominantly rural folks coming into the city as drought and hard times hit. It is I guess what we as Pulse volunteers are trying to do, overwhelming in some respects to help these people with little education.
The second church was the Holy Trinity, also burial place of Hailie Selassie. The church is adjacent to the Prime Minister soffice and peoples assembly. paying teh ticket I noticed the woman hiding what appeared to be facial injuries.This church was also finishing the mass.We managed to walk around the church and see up close the tomb and priest artifacts. I was taken aback by surprise in terms of the devotion the people had, bowing, and kissing floor and other holy objects. I even noticed people kissing the building outside. I also went into the adjacent museum which had many artifacts from 18 and 19th century, royal garments and crowns.
My two guides then stuck with me as they showed me the way back to my hotel, still pushing their story asking for over 1000 birr to pay for their room. I gave them 200 birr ($12) to thank them - proabbaly too much.
Caught up with the other Pulse folks for lunch and walked around. Accosted by more mothers with babies - and gave them a few birr, but then a whole crowd pounced on us. It took some strong language from the taxi driver to push them away. Not what we were taught in training!
So Day 2 has opened my eyes to the poverty even more so as it clashes with modern buildings going up all around at least in the Bole area.
The rain was still coming down so I decided to walk to the taxi rank about 200 metres down the road. I was accosted by first one then a second young men. The first later showed my a uide ID card, and was 21 , while the second was about 25, both students, struggling to live and pay rent, utilities and food of $150 per month. They stuck to me like glue, suggesting I visit a couple of churches. Well I decided to do that - the first was the Church of St Mary's a mix of Ethiopian Ortodox ( major part of church) and a second smaller part was Coptic. The mass was finishing as we entered. There has been at least a week of fasting during the day which was over and tonight would be a final big celebration. Around the church courtyard sat many people out of the rain under cover.
After visiting the church we continued our walk down the road, even with light rain and torrents of water rushin down the road and open drain pits which I need to avoid. I was struck by the number of people selling many things as well as beggars, people with deformities, blind, mothers with babies...all remaining in the rain with various degrees of clothing, filthy dirty, sandals for foot coverings. It is something I am not familiar back home, but can understand their plight as the economy cannot support these people, predominantly rural folks coming into the city as drought and hard times hit. It is I guess what we as Pulse volunteers are trying to do, overwhelming in some respects to help these people with little education.
The second church was the Holy Trinity, also burial place of Hailie Selassie. The church is adjacent to the Prime Minister soffice and peoples assembly. paying teh ticket I noticed the woman hiding what appeared to be facial injuries.This church was also finishing the mass.We managed to walk around the church and see up close the tomb and priest artifacts. I was taken aback by surprise in terms of the devotion the people had, bowing, and kissing floor and other holy objects. I even noticed people kissing the building outside. I also went into the adjacent museum which had many artifacts from 18 and 19th century, royal garments and crowns.
My two guides then stuck with me as they showed me the way back to my hotel, still pushing their story asking for over 1000 birr to pay for their room. I gave them 200 birr ($12) to thank them - proabbaly too much.
Caught up with the other Pulse folks for lunch and walked around. Accosted by more mothers with babies - and gave them a few birr, but then a whole crowd pounced on us. It took some strong language from the taxi driver to push them away. Not what we were taught in training!
So Day 2 has opened my eyes to the poverty even more so as it clashes with modern buildings going up all around at least in the Bole area.
Saturday 20 August 2011
First day in Ethiopia
Its Sunday morning and I have been in Addis Ababa almost 18 hrs. Its 6 am as I type, listening for the last few hours to dogs barking and the muzzein call to prayer. I look from hotel room across a shanty area towards the north east, towards hills whose names I have yet to learn, shrouded in mist.
My flight from Australia via Dubai was uneventful, although I can say dont try to have a shower at Dubai airport as you will be offered paper towels. The flight into Addis over rural areas to the south revealed a green landed with much of it dotted by pools of water from the current rain season. As we approached the airport we flew over blocks of apartments unconnected by any perceivable road - maybe a dirt track but not distinguishable. The Emirates plane landed with a thud and we taxied to the terminal.
The airport was very quiet at 11.15 am so breezed through passport control, money exchange, luggage collection and customs. Sarah Moore, Pulse's first volunteer into Ethiopia this year met me at the airport with her taxi driver. We drove out under the "Bridge" and through a roundabout with cars and donkeys with hay bales as loads, all negotiating a path. Heading northwest along Bole Road it was as I imagined from photos I had seen. As the taxi stopped in the traffic, we were approached by a mother with baby, a blind mother with son ( maybe 10 years old) seeking money for food. As we drove the buildings varied from modern to simple shacks all businesses selling something.
I must comment on the taxis. Not unlike ones I had seen elsewhere, but definitely unroadworthy back home and not a recommendation for the local tourist authority. That being said, the driver Yenene definitely knew what he was doing.
Arriving at Meskel Square, the only place with traffic lights in Addis, we paused again before heading to the hotel. Check in was quick, I got a local SIM card. Sarah and the other two Pulse volunteers in Addis, Laura and Bridget picked me about 2 hrs later and took me for my first Ethiopian meal at the "Family Restaraunt" in DZ, a local suburb- it was Ethiopian Mexican. Interestingly, many streets that do have names are named after countries. We drove past a number of public building surrounded by fence with Lion statue atop the gate posts.
My flight from Australia via Dubai was uneventful, although I can say dont try to have a shower at Dubai airport as you will be offered paper towels. The flight into Addis over rural areas to the south revealed a green landed with much of it dotted by pools of water from the current rain season. As we approached the airport we flew over blocks of apartments unconnected by any perceivable road - maybe a dirt track but not distinguishable. The Emirates plane landed with a thud and we taxied to the terminal.
The airport was very quiet at 11.15 am so breezed through passport control, money exchange, luggage collection and customs. Sarah Moore, Pulse's first volunteer into Ethiopia this year met me at the airport with her taxi driver. We drove out under the "Bridge" and through a roundabout with cars and donkeys with hay bales as loads, all negotiating a path. Heading northwest along Bole Road it was as I imagined from photos I had seen. As the taxi stopped in the traffic, we were approached by a mother with baby, a blind mother with son ( maybe 10 years old) seeking money for food. As we drove the buildings varied from modern to simple shacks all businesses selling something.
I must comment on the taxis. Not unlike ones I had seen elsewhere, but definitely unroadworthy back home and not a recommendation for the local tourist authority. That being said, the driver Yenene definitely knew what he was doing.
Arriving at Meskel Square, the only place with traffic lights in Addis, we paused again before heading to the hotel. Check in was quick, I got a local SIM card. Sarah and the other two Pulse volunteers in Addis, Laura and Bridget picked me about 2 hrs later and took me for my first Ethiopian meal at the "Family Restaraunt" in DZ, a local suburb- it was Ethiopian Mexican. Interestingly, many streets that do have names are named after countries. We drove past a number of public building surrounded by fence with Lion statue atop the gate posts.
Wednesday 17 August 2011
Last night had a family dinner at a Thai restaraunt for my birthday and farewell. Interesting presents - a book about hostage negotiation, clothes and a DVD - "Dont Mess with the Zohan.... Today is my last day at work, pizza for everyone.
My attempt to get to at least 1 of 3 Ethiopian restaraunts in Melbourne before I left was not successful.
I am still trying to figure out what to pack. With about 45 kg in 2 small suitcases of clothes, shoes, pharmaceuticals and additional possibly useful items. I am 15 kg over my baggage allowance on Emirates. That extra luggage will cost me A$1050. I have sent an e-mail to Emirates that I am going on a noble mission to Ethiopia and cant they show some pity on a volunteer.... Otherwise will have to Fedex some of it. ,,,...Well Emirates didnt come to the party, but I managed to get down to 35 kg so only about A$350, which is the same as Fedex shipment for 5 -10 kg. Will buy clothes in Addis Ababa!
Reading and watching TV about the rains in the north and central part of ethiopia and the drought in the south. All up food is scarce for all the refugees and even ethiopians themselves in the south - it is mystifying in this age why we cant help make life easier for all these people - Millenium is great in that it helps them to help themselves.
My attempt to get to at least 1 of 3 Ethiopian restaraunts in Melbourne before I left was not successful.
I am still trying to figure out what to pack. With about 45 kg in 2 small suitcases of clothes, shoes, pharmaceuticals and additional possibly useful items. I am 15 kg over my baggage allowance on Emirates. That extra luggage will cost me A$1050. I have sent an e-mail to Emirates that I am going on a noble mission to Ethiopia and cant they show some pity on a volunteer.... Otherwise will have to Fedex some of it. ,,,...Well Emirates didnt come to the party, but I managed to get down to 35 kg so only about A$350, which is the same as Fedex shipment for 5 -10 kg. Will buy clothes in Addis Ababa!
Reading and watching TV about the rains in the north and central part of ethiopia and the drought in the south. All up food is scarce for all the refugees and even ethiopians themselves in the south - it is mystifying in this age why we cant help make life easier for all these people - Millenium is great in that it helps them to help themselves.
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