I went back home to Australia in mid-November. A pre-arranged trip with the NGO and Pulse to attend to my daughters graduation, parents illness and sons engagement. The project was in hiatus until early January, so nothing could be done or progressed. I remained in contact via Skype with my Pulse GSK colleagues.
Coming back home was refreshing both psychologicallly and physically. I had lost 7 kgs, and a medical check showed I was probably my healthiest in 10-15 years. I have been doing the 4 km 1000 steps in the hills near my house in Melbourne everyday to maintain that level of fitness as well as prepare for the Mt Kilimanjaro climb in December.
News from Hawzen was stunning, 3 close colleagues from MVP ether did not have their contracts renewed or resigned. These were the 3 that had helped the most, so was going to be interesting on my return.
But back in Melbourne, enjoyed family and friends, dinners and outings and preparing for Mt Kilimanjaro.
Tuesday 13 December 2011
Axum Journey
Saturday October 22, stated out as a good day for a long trip to Axum and back on the following day. Decided to hire a 4WD from Waldi, our car contact in Mekele. He arranged through a friend to rent us a Nissan patrol, with over 250,000 km, new engine and a 19 year old driver Avraham.
The drive from Hawzen took us to Adigrat, and north to the church Debre Damos.It was about 40 km north west on a gravel road from Adigrat, but only 15 km from the main road from Adigrat to Axum. The drive to Debre Damos took us through a number of stunning valleys, somewhat isolated, but was surprised by the number of huts and people. The road I guess from the map skirted the Eritrean border, but other than an army check point we did not see a soldier or signs of the border.
Debre Damos church is about 1400 years old, and is located on a high rock bluff, accessible only to males, and by a rope, basket pulley arrangement. There are many religious festivals held in Ethiopia, and there was one to occur in 2 days time at Debre Damos, where there would be thousands of people coming to visit and pray. Time did not allow us to climb to Debre Damos, so we pushed on to Yeha.
Yeha is an ancient capital, dating to pre-christain times. It is about about 6 km off the current main road between Adigrat ad Adewa. Th etown is small and teh temple is now located within a church compound. A Grman archaelogical group is investigating the area and only touched a small area and to a depth of half a metre Impressive were teh rock walls of teh temple. There was a church with beautiful paintings and an older monastery which we scaled to the second floor. Quite a number of artifacts and bibles were found and a priest , the first we had met who spoke English gave us an overview of their history.
Th etrip from Yeah to Adewa, site of famous Italian -Ethiopian battle si nteh 19th century, was quick and we had lunch in one of the hotels. No time to visit the battle sites before heading to Axum. Check in at theAfrica hotel before heading to the church of St Mary of Sion and the Stellae and Museum.
St Mary of Sion church site anda large modern cathederal, reminiscent of Mehadene Alem Cathederal in Addis Ababa. The site also had an older church, museum and a church with the Ark of the Covenant or replica. The Ark of the Covenant is protected by a priest who nevers leaves the church. It is held behind closed doors. teh church is adornbed with paintings. the story goes that the Ark was brought to Axum by thr son of the Queen Sheba and King Solomon, known as Menelik I.
Then to view the large Stellae or stone pillars and the archaelogical museum. Fascinating history, albeit too short and minimalistic to really get a sense of the long history of the area.
In the evening we had dinner at the Yohannes Intenational restaraunt run by an ex US Marine an dhsi Ethiopian wife. Ordered steak which I hadnt had in a while and also tried their famous cinnamon buns.
On Sunday I was woken to the sounds of the priests praying at the cathederal, A breakfast in another hotel, followed by heading off to the guide association to hire a guide to show us the archaelogical sites. We visited in quick succession, King Caleb archaelogical site, Queen Sheba pool, Queen Sheba palace, field of Stellae, King Balthazar archaelogical site and then some remanents of rock pillars in Enzano Park.
The morning had been full of history, although Axum is a huge archaelogical site, very little has been excavated and explored. The history is based more on legend than fact.
On the road again for the return trip to Hawzen, we stopped forlunch at another hotel in Adewa. Then heading through theback or short route to Hawzen, we headed somehat south for about 50 km and a gravel road that ultimately would get to Mekele. Turning east on a road to Maryam Wukro, 51 km, passing through a number of small towns to arrive at Nobelet. The drive was stunning, numerous houses and fields in valleys that dropped several hundred feet from the plateau we were driving on. Our driver had never been this way so every so often we had to make sure we were on the right road.
Maryam Wukro is supposedly a stunning church, about 7 km north of Nobelet. Little did we know that the road is impassable and in the end did not make it very far. Time did not allow us to walk to the church. Nobelet was a small dusty rural village that probably had not seen many ferenje. Kids running around our 4WD seeking money.....The dust had built up considerably inside and outside the 4WD but only another hour to Hawzen and maybe some respite. However, this was tempered by the beautiful and stunning scenery that even pictures could not describe nor capture. Driving back I manged to get my bearings on the Gheralta range in the distance.
Overall a great 2 days that relieved the stress of working at Millenium in Hawzen. While work life balance is some what hard to find back home with so many obligations these weekend breaks restoke the energy.
The drive from Hawzen took us to Adigrat, and north to the church Debre Damos.It was about 40 km north west on a gravel road from Adigrat, but only 15 km from the main road from Adigrat to Axum. The drive to Debre Damos took us through a number of stunning valleys, somewhat isolated, but was surprised by the number of huts and people. The road I guess from the map skirted the Eritrean border, but other than an army check point we did not see a soldier or signs of the border.
Debre Damos church is about 1400 years old, and is located on a high rock bluff, accessible only to males, and by a rope, basket pulley arrangement. There are many religious festivals held in Ethiopia, and there was one to occur in 2 days time at Debre Damos, where there would be thousands of people coming to visit and pray. Time did not allow us to climb to Debre Damos, so we pushed on to Yeha.
Yeha is an ancient capital, dating to pre-christain times. It is about about 6 km off the current main road between Adigrat ad Adewa. Th etown is small and teh temple is now located within a church compound. A Grman archaelogical group is investigating the area and only touched a small area and to a depth of half a metre Impressive were teh rock walls of teh temple. There was a church with beautiful paintings and an older monastery which we scaled to the second floor. Quite a number of artifacts and bibles were found and a priest , the first we had met who spoke English gave us an overview of their history.
Th etrip from Yeah to Adewa, site of famous Italian -Ethiopian battle si nteh 19th century, was quick and we had lunch in one of the hotels. No time to visit the battle sites before heading to Axum. Check in at theAfrica hotel before heading to the church of St Mary of Sion and the Stellae and Museum.
St Mary of Sion church site anda large modern cathederal, reminiscent of Mehadene Alem Cathederal in Addis Ababa. The site also had an older church, museum and a church with the Ark of the Covenant or replica. The Ark of the Covenant is protected by a priest who nevers leaves the church. It is held behind closed doors. teh church is adornbed with paintings. the story goes that the Ark was brought to Axum by thr son of the Queen Sheba and King Solomon, known as Menelik I.
Then to view the large Stellae or stone pillars and the archaelogical museum. Fascinating history, albeit too short and minimalistic to really get a sense of the long history of the area.
In the evening we had dinner at the Yohannes Intenational restaraunt run by an ex US Marine an dhsi Ethiopian wife. Ordered steak which I hadnt had in a while and also tried their famous cinnamon buns.
On Sunday I was woken to the sounds of the priests praying at the cathederal, A breakfast in another hotel, followed by heading off to the guide association to hire a guide to show us the archaelogical sites. We visited in quick succession, King Caleb archaelogical site, Queen Sheba pool, Queen Sheba palace, field of Stellae, King Balthazar archaelogical site and then some remanents of rock pillars in Enzano Park.
The morning had been full of history, although Axum is a huge archaelogical site, very little has been excavated and explored. The history is based more on legend than fact.
On the road again for the return trip to Hawzen, we stopped forlunch at another hotel in Adewa. Then heading through theback or short route to Hawzen, we headed somehat south for about 50 km and a gravel road that ultimately would get to Mekele. Turning east on a road to Maryam Wukro, 51 km, passing through a number of small towns to arrive at Nobelet. The drive was stunning, numerous houses and fields in valleys that dropped several hundred feet from the plateau we were driving on. Our driver had never been this way so every so often we had to make sure we were on the right road.
Maryam Wukro is supposedly a stunning church, about 7 km north of Nobelet. Little did we know that the road is impassable and in the end did not make it very far. Time did not allow us to walk to the church. Nobelet was a small dusty rural village that probably had not seen many ferenje. Kids running around our 4WD seeking money.....The dust had built up considerably inside and outside the 4WD but only another hour to Hawzen and maybe some respite. However, this was tempered by the beautiful and stunning scenery that even pictures could not describe nor capture. Driving back I manged to get my bearings on the Gheralta range in the distance.
Overall a great 2 days that relieved the stress of working at Millenium in Hawzen. While work life balance is some what hard to find back home with so many obligations these weekend breaks restoke the energy.
Saturday 29 October 2011
After the working week, a weekend outdoors with a bit of Ethiopian culture
A week in Addis Ababa at a couple of meetings and preparing notes for the Millenium Villages laboratory staff.
This past weekend ventured south to Debre Zeit, a bustling town around 3 crater lakes, which had a number of hotels on their shores. The area was nothing spectacular but good for resting, cycling and kayaking.
Life for GSK ferenje is spilt between Addis Ababa, a bustling metroplis still with cattle, goats and sheep wandering around outside the Inetrnational Airport, to the rural villages of the Millenium Village Project,. Strikingly food, and insect bites are the key differences, and getting back to Addis Ababa gives some relief from both. Indulging in some western food helps!
This past weekend ventured south to Debre Zeit, a bustling town around 3 crater lakes, which had a number of hotels on their shores. The area was nothing spectacular but good for resting, cycling and kayaking.
Life for GSK ferenje is spilt between Addis Ababa, a bustling metroplis still with cattle, goats and sheep wandering around outside the Inetrnational Airport, to the rural villages of the Millenium Village Project,. Strikingly food, and insect bites are the key differences, and getting back to Addis Ababa gives some relief from both. Indulging in some western food helps!
Monday 17 October 2011
From the Simien Mountains to Gonder
Like a tale from Lord of the Rings I ventured to the Simien Mountains this past weekend for 2 days of trekking. An early morning flight that was changed both in time and route took me from Addis Ababa to the far north of Ethiopia to the ancient town of Axum and then back south-west to Gonder. From Gonder a 4 hr drive back towards Axum to the town of Debark and then another hour into the Simien Mountains National park to the Simien Lodge. The highest Lodge in Africa at 10,300 feet comprises about 20 Tukuls or thatched roof style huts with modern internal fit outs.
The drive to the Simiens took the main road north which has been under construction by the Chinese government already for 3 years and probably will take another 3-6 years to complete. The scenery was beautiful. A flat tyre in a town attracted locals aroun us ferenjes. Arriving late at 3.30 pm we picked up a guide and scout in Debark and after arrival at the lodge took a 2 hr walk around the hills of the lodge. Baboons were everywhere - like a scene from Planet of the Apes we could see them play and with a number of tourists getting up relatively close. As well local kids offering small baskets and hats made by hand. These kids some with no shoes and rags on their back and filthy dirty were trying to make a birr or two to support their families.
Saturday morning rose to the sound of quiet and a few birds, breakfast in the lodge and by 8.30 am started on what was to be a 4 hr, 16 km walk along the escarpment with guide and armed scout, and parallel to the gravel road that headed into the park for at least 110 km to the next town. Walking along the escarpment I saw birds, baboons, cattle, goats and sheep as well people, mostly kids and occasional a few houses that constituted some human habitation. Trucks packed with as many as 80 people passed along the road in both directions, but going to and or coming from villages inside the park. The beauty was indescribable of the view from the escarpment and can only compare it to the valleys in the Blue Mountains to the west of Sydney, Australia.
Up and down the hils we went, struggling to much with the climb itself but lack of oxygen at 10-11,000 feet. Stoping every 5-10 min or every 20 meters it seemed I was still not fit. Water and some small food to eat along the way. By 1 pm we had stopped and waited for our driver to come from the Lodge. He took us a further 10 min along the road, passing a camp site and then 15 min walk to high cliffs from which water fell, much like Yosemite in the US.
We then drove back about 35 min to the Lodge, just as fog started to roll in blocking all the views we had seen in the morning.
The back to the Lodge and the following day the drive back to Gonder. In Gonder a guided tour to view the 16th century castles or what remained following their partial destruction by British bombing Italian forces in WWII.
A
The drive to the Simiens took the main road north which has been under construction by the Chinese government already for 3 years and probably will take another 3-6 years to complete. The scenery was beautiful. A flat tyre in a town attracted locals aroun us ferenjes. Arriving late at 3.30 pm we picked up a guide and scout in Debark and after arrival at the lodge took a 2 hr walk around the hills of the lodge. Baboons were everywhere - like a scene from Planet of the Apes we could see them play and with a number of tourists getting up relatively close. As well local kids offering small baskets and hats made by hand. These kids some with no shoes and rags on their back and filthy dirty were trying to make a birr or two to support their families.
Saturday morning rose to the sound of quiet and a few birds, breakfast in the lodge and by 8.30 am started on what was to be a 4 hr, 16 km walk along the escarpment with guide and armed scout, and parallel to the gravel road that headed into the park for at least 110 km to the next town. Walking along the escarpment I saw birds, baboons, cattle, goats and sheep as well people, mostly kids and occasional a few houses that constituted some human habitation. Trucks packed with as many as 80 people passed along the road in both directions, but going to and or coming from villages inside the park. The beauty was indescribable of the view from the escarpment and can only compare it to the valleys in the Blue Mountains to the west of Sydney, Australia.
Up and down the hils we went, struggling to much with the climb itself but lack of oxygen at 10-11,000 feet. Stoping every 5-10 min or every 20 meters it seemed I was still not fit. Water and some small food to eat along the way. By 1 pm we had stopped and waited for our driver to come from the Lodge. He took us a further 10 min along the road, passing a camp site and then 15 min walk to high cliffs from which water fell, much like Yosemite in the US.
We then drove back about 35 min to the Lodge, just as fog started to roll in blocking all the views we had seen in the morning.
The back to the Lodge and the following day the drive back to Gonder. In Gonder a guided tour to view the 16th century castles or what remained following their partial destruction by British bombing Italian forces in WWII.
A
Wednesday 5 October 2011
Around Hawzen this week
Our MVP site in Hawzen has a coffee shop opposite as well as a pool room (they are very common in Hawzen). Unfortunately they dont have pool cues but have invented another game with the balls, much like lawn bowls. When no-one has anything on the drivers expecially and some of the staff congreagate for a fast exciting game. The rules seem to be mad up on the spot if we get involved. On a more seriius note, our Tigrinya lessons are progressing and can make ourselves understood in the market.
Saturday 1 October 2011
Back to basics - from Harar to Meskel
The last couple of weeks have been interesting with highs and lows at Millenium. Submitted my final report and went off to Harar and Addis Ababa for a tour and Meskel celebrations respectively. My visit to Addis Ababa was in fact driven by a meeting at EHNRI, the key institute which drives health based programmes and oversees the hospital laboratories programmes.
The trip to Addis was as usual uneventful, picked at Bole airport and to Harmony Hotel. Saturday morning got to the airport early for the flight to Harar, or in actual fact to Dire Dawa which is about 100 km west of Harar. Harar is in eastern Ethiopia, about 90% Muslim and a 1000 year history. Harar is not too far (<100 km) from Somaliland.
We were met at the airport by Binama in an old Peugeot station wagon (nearly all taxis in the region were old Peugeot's). The fact that it had no door or window handles, a bare metal floor, no workable gauges and a windscreen that one had to bend over to see through filled us with expectations. Well driving through the mountains and down to Harar was an interesting sight, through many towns and occasional breath taking scenes.
The hotel in Harar was the Heritage Plaza, a 6 year old hotel, which had somewhat shabby rooms that had not really been maintained. The reception were very nice, and after check in had organised a tour with a recommended guide called Hamdi ( unlicensed but still knew what he was doing). The old city of Harar celebrated about 1000 years in 2010, and judging by pictures and photos from 19th century had not chnage dmuch in the last 100 years. nevertheless wandering around the old city to see churches and mosques was intriguing. Everywhere were street markets and stalls. I wandered through the spice market , a rich aroma of smells. I had the opportunity to visit, the Hailie Selassie, house, Arthur Rimbaud (a famous French poet) house when he lived for a short time at the end of the 19th century. Visits to the only remaining blacksmith and to a coffee making house and to the khat market highlighted a great afternoon of enjoying Harari culture.
Apart from the old city, Harar is also famous for Khat, a mild narcotic containing plant, the inhabitants are constantly chewing on, and the feeding of hyensa at sunset.
The feeding of hyenas take splace just outside the old city walls. The hyenas, numbering about 6, are in fact doemsticated and fed well so that they will not likely attack. There are 2 feeding group shows, one being about 89 years old and the other about 10 years old. There are 1-2 feedings per evening depending on the number of tourists. The feeder entices the hyenas with meat by calling their names. Tourists can also feed the hyenas by holding a stick with meat on the end of it. For 100 birr per person it was interesting and all over in less than 15 min. I must say it was interesting and exciting.
The return trip from Harar to Dire Dawa was almost a non-event, when our car ran out of fuel as it was heading out of Hara. Luckily we rolled backwards into a gas station to fill up. In Dire Dawa we passed by the old railway station of the Addis Ababa - Dijbouti line.
After returning from Harar on Sundat aftrenoon, we had dinner and went to
As the rainy season is coming to an end this month, the Ethiopian highlands are starting to fill with a yellow daisy known as the Meskel flower. The Meskel holiday itself is an annual Ethiopian Orthodox religious holiday commemorating the discovery of the True Cross, which occurs on the 17 Meskerem (the first month in the Ethiopian calendar). The Meskel celebration involved burning of a very .large bonfire, which is connected to the belief that it was the smoke from a large fire that led to the discovery of the True Cross. The bonfire celebration took place the evening before the Meskel holiday day (Tuesday, September 27 this year), and we attended the large gathering in Meskel Square in Addis Ababa.
On the feast day this year, people from all over the world, but mostly Ethiopians, gathered in Meskel Square in Addis Ababa for festivities. There was singing, dancing and cheering throughout the afternoon and into the evening that day. Singing and dancing was led by Sunday School students from different schools in Addis Ababa who marched into Meskel Sqaure and then preformed various dances . A huge bonfire was lit at sunset. It was also the coldest and wettest day that I've experienced thus far in Ethiopia. Approximately 200,000 people were there that day to celebrate.
Reflecting on the past few weeks - I came to Ethiopia with a project outline and no expectations. Ups and downs of the culture, language barrier and bureacracy have challenged me, but the thing that I enjoy is getting out in the field meeting the people in the health clinic labs that I am supporting. Providing advice because they think I know something as I am not ethiopian and to be thanked is reward in itself. Still, no expectations works for me. The travels to Addis Ababa, to Harar to villages whose names I dont recall makes me see what differences and similarities we have in Australian society and Ethiopian. the blatant poverty and poor people of thiscountry and what they do to make a birr or $ shows we are no different - just trying to survive.
This week I started to learn Tigrinya.
The trip to Addis was as usual uneventful, picked at Bole airport and to Harmony Hotel. Saturday morning got to the airport early for the flight to Harar, or in actual fact to Dire Dawa which is about 100 km west of Harar. Harar is in eastern Ethiopia, about 90% Muslim and a 1000 year history. Harar is not too far (<100 km) from Somaliland.
We were met at the airport by Binama in an old Peugeot station wagon (nearly all taxis in the region were old Peugeot's). The fact that it had no door or window handles, a bare metal floor, no workable gauges and a windscreen that one had to bend over to see through filled us with expectations. Well driving through the mountains and down to Harar was an interesting sight, through many towns and occasional breath taking scenes.
The hotel in Harar was the Heritage Plaza, a 6 year old hotel, which had somewhat shabby rooms that had not really been maintained. The reception were very nice, and after check in had organised a tour with a recommended guide called Hamdi ( unlicensed but still knew what he was doing). The old city of Harar celebrated about 1000 years in 2010, and judging by pictures and photos from 19th century had not chnage dmuch in the last 100 years. nevertheless wandering around the old city to see churches and mosques was intriguing. Everywhere were street markets and stalls. I wandered through the spice market , a rich aroma of smells. I had the opportunity to visit, the Hailie Selassie, house, Arthur Rimbaud (a famous French poet) house when he lived for a short time at the end of the 19th century. Visits to the only remaining blacksmith and to a coffee making house and to the khat market highlighted a great afternoon of enjoying Harari culture.
Apart from the old city, Harar is also famous for Khat, a mild narcotic containing plant, the inhabitants are constantly chewing on, and the feeding of hyensa at sunset.
The feeding of hyenas take splace just outside the old city walls. The hyenas, numbering about 6, are in fact doemsticated and fed well so that they will not likely attack. There are 2 feeding group shows, one being about 89 years old and the other about 10 years old. There are 1-2 feedings per evening depending on the number of tourists. The feeder entices the hyenas with meat by calling their names. Tourists can also feed the hyenas by holding a stick with meat on the end of it. For 100 birr per person it was interesting and all over in less than 15 min. I must say it was interesting and exciting.
The return trip from Harar to Dire Dawa was almost a non-event, when our car ran out of fuel as it was heading out of Hara. Luckily we rolled backwards into a gas station to fill up. In Dire Dawa we passed by the old railway station of the Addis Ababa - Dijbouti line.
After returning from Harar on Sundat aftrenoon, we had dinner and went to
As the rainy season is coming to an end this month, the Ethiopian highlands are starting to fill with a yellow daisy known as the Meskel flower. The Meskel holiday itself is an annual Ethiopian Orthodox religious holiday commemorating the discovery of the True Cross, which occurs on the 17 Meskerem (the first month in the Ethiopian calendar). The Meskel celebration involved burning of a very .large bonfire, which is connected to the belief that it was the smoke from a large fire that led to the discovery of the True Cross. The bonfire celebration took place the evening before the Meskel holiday day (Tuesday, September 27 this year), and we attended the large gathering in Meskel Square in Addis Ababa.
On the feast day this year, people from all over the world, but mostly Ethiopians, gathered in Meskel Square in Addis Ababa for festivities. There was singing, dancing and cheering throughout the afternoon and into the evening that day. Singing and dancing was led by Sunday School students from different schools in Addis Ababa who marched into Meskel Sqaure and then preformed various dances . A huge bonfire was lit at sunset. It was also the coldest and wettest day that I've experienced thus far in Ethiopia. Approximately 200,000 people were there that day to celebrate.
Reflecting on the past few weeks - I came to Ethiopia with a project outline and no expectations. Ups and downs of the culture, language barrier and bureacracy have challenged me, but the thing that I enjoy is getting out in the field meeting the people in the health clinic labs that I am supporting. Providing advice because they think I know something as I am not ethiopian and to be thanked is reward in itself. Still, no expectations works for me. The travels to Addis Ababa, to Harar to villages whose names I dont recall makes me see what differences and similarities we have in Australian society and Ethiopian. the blatant poverty and poor people of thiscountry and what they do to make a birr or $ shows we are no different - just trying to survive.
This week I started to learn Tigrinya.
Saturday 17 September 2011
A week of contrasts
This week upon my return from Addis Ababa, I discovered that most of the office was on annual leave for the rest of the week. Frustrating part of working in the boonies is lack of communication to let us know what is happening at the site.espite asking the previous week who was going to be away.
I still managed to mount one trip to Degamba to visit the Health Centre laboratory. The drive there proved quite rough with the road disappearing some times and proving in some sections inaccessible which required slight diversions.
The return trip proved even more interesting as an Ethiopian male of about 45 yrs tried to throw his gear in the back of the Nissan cab and get on while the we were still moving. Our driver Hafrom, Sayit and Sege ( MVP health workers) and myself got out and tried to remove the man and his gear from the car. Pushing and shoving led to some almost thrown punches. Things got tense as villagers flocked to restrain the man while we tried to get Haftom free to get him back to the vehicle. We finaly got on our way even with eman standing in front of the car.
Saturday proved a nice day to take a drive north to teh city of Adigrat which is about 125 km or 90 min drive over roads almost completly under construction thewhole length. The scenery is spectacular, and one forgets where you are. At about 7000 feet, Adigrat is the base for a start to the road to Axum. Adigrat is about 30 km south of the Eritrean border. In 1998-2000 Ethiopia and Eritrea fought a border war. The border remains closed. Adigrat is surrounded by mountains and great sceneery and look forward to getting back for some trekking, as we foun dout there are soe great treks with huts along the way.
We had lunch at the Cathlic church with the Bishop Abune Testaselassie. He had met Delphin on the plane from Addis Ababa to Mekele 4 weeks previous and invited her to visit. We had a chat about the archdiocese and what they were doing for the community. The catholic community is very small in the region.
After lunch theBishop gave us a tour of the compound, anf from abobve on teh roof of the buildin from which we had an excellent overview of Adigrat. We the visited the Italian War Cemetery, mostly unknown soldiers, from the Italian-Abyssinia war of 1936-1939. It woudl seem based on teh registration book there are 2-3 visit a month from tourists.
The Bishop put us in contact with a couple of French and Spanish ex-pats who were working the area and we later had a drink with Alex, a French ex-pat working with Caritas International on infrastructure projects.
Sunday was Meskal at the Gheralta Lodge with about 150 invited guests including priests from thesurrounding churches. September 26 i steh eve of Meskal and is a feats commerating the Finding of the True Cross. http://www.ethioembassy.org.uk/articles/articles/focus%20electronic-00/ermias%20gulilat%20-%201.htm. At the Lodge there were speeches, lunch and then singing and dancing.
I still managed to mount one trip to Degamba to visit the Health Centre laboratory. The drive there proved quite rough with the road disappearing some times and proving in some sections inaccessible which required slight diversions.
The return trip proved even more interesting as an Ethiopian male of about 45 yrs tried to throw his gear in the back of the Nissan cab and get on while the we were still moving. Our driver Hafrom, Sayit and Sege ( MVP health workers) and myself got out and tried to remove the man and his gear from the car. Pushing and shoving led to some almost thrown punches. Things got tense as villagers flocked to restrain the man while we tried to get Haftom free to get him back to the vehicle. We finaly got on our way even with eman standing in front of the car.
Saturday proved a nice day to take a drive north to teh city of Adigrat which is about 125 km or 90 min drive over roads almost completly under construction thewhole length. The scenery is spectacular, and one forgets where you are. At about 7000 feet, Adigrat is the base for a start to the road to Axum. Adigrat is about 30 km south of the Eritrean border. In 1998-2000 Ethiopia and Eritrea fought a border war. The border remains closed. Adigrat is surrounded by mountains and great sceneery and look forward to getting back for some trekking, as we foun dout there are soe great treks with huts along the way.
We had lunch at the Cathlic church with the Bishop Abune Testaselassie. He had met Delphin on the plane from Addis Ababa to Mekele 4 weeks previous and invited her to visit. We had a chat about the archdiocese and what they were doing for the community. The catholic community is very small in the region.
After lunch theBishop gave us a tour of the compound, anf from abobve on teh roof of the buildin from which we had an excellent overview of Adigrat. We the visited the Italian War Cemetery, mostly unknown soldiers, from the Italian-Abyssinia war of 1936-1939. It woudl seem based on teh registration book there are 2-3 visit a month from tourists.
The Bishop put us in contact with a couple of French and Spanish ex-pats who were working the area and we later had a drink with Alex, a French ex-pat working with Caritas International on infrastructure projects.
Sunday was Meskal at the Gheralta Lodge with about 150 invited guests including priests from thesurrounding churches. September 26 i steh eve of Meskal and is a feats commerating the Finding of the True Cross. http://www.ethioembassy.org.uk/articles/articles/focus%20electronic-00/ermias%20gulilat%20-%201.htm. At the Lodge there were speeches, lunch and then singing and dancing.
Wednesday 14 September 2011
Happy New Year
With my first report draft submitted I headed to Addis Ababa on Friday 9 September. A 2.5 hr drive to Mekele and then a 1 hr flight to Addis Ababa and finally a taxi ride to the hotel. The Harmony Hotel is a popular hotel for short term visitors and close to the Bole International airport.
Without waiting too long I headed to the supermarket for some essentials, that I had been missing in Hawzen. Cheese, tuna and chips.
That evening we went to the Top View restaraunt just off the ring road - nice food with a great night and day time view of the city.
Saturday was a bit laid back as sometimes it can be as plans for a hike turned into nought. We then went to the Ethnography Museum of Ethiopia at the University of Addis Ababa (http://www.addisculturetourism.gov.et/en/tourism-research-addis-ababa-ethiopia-3/item/110-ethnographic-museum-content.html ). Not enough time of 1 hr as we started to be edged out after only 30 min with the museum looking to close earlier than advertised.
Another great evening meal and show at Jazzeemba, a new jazz club and as we found out other types of music. The club is located at the oldest hotel in Ethiopia, Taitu. Rather than jazz, we came in to listen to 80's retro in English and possibly Amharic. Difficult to tell with so many languages but I am learning to differentiate music styles and associated ethnic styles. The night was still young so we went to a night club near the hotel and listened to Kenny Allen and the 251 Band (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5GXrcn-L18) . Kenny Allen is a Washington DC native who has been in Addis Ababa for 6 years and playing western and ethiopian music with different people before putting his band together.
Sunday was a brigfht day, New Years eve. The GSK folks based here got together to visit Entoto, a village with 2 churches and a palace on the highest mountain close to Addis Ababa. At 10,000 feet it is another level of endurance and breathing effort. But having been at 5,000 feet for the past 3 weeks I am in better shape to cope. As we drove up we saw herds of sheep coming from the rural villages to be sold for New Years eve dinners. As well, women and donkeys were bringing large amounts of wood down for bonfires that night.
The palace of Emperor Menelik overlooks the city of Addis Ababa through a forest of eucalypts. This is where he was born. The church in frotn was built to comemerate his birth place. The churches and palace were intersting. A second church was a further 5 km along the road and was a rock hewn church which was later replaced by a stand alone church. This church had beautiful paintings of biblical scenes.
In th evening we went to Yod Abyssinia, a cultural restraunt of which there are many in Addis Ababa. Music, song and dance from the different regions of Ethiopia in a program of just over 3 hrs was enjoyed. Despite it being a show it did demonstrate the vibrance of Ethiopian culture.
One of the MVP girls from Addis Ababa office then took us to the Ethiomillenium nightclub for the ethiopian version of a night club/disco. All music was ethiopian and the dancing was very much the shoulder dancing style. Men dancing with men and few couples on the floor. Again very friendly people for us 5 ferenjes in this night club.
Ironically New Year came and went without a countdown to midnight nor even a comment from the DJ. It took us 5 ferenjes to scream out Happy New Year and even then we were not noticed.
New Years Day 2004, found me tired and packing for the trip back to Hawzen. The flight back was uneventful, but landed to have our colleague Mullo meet us, take us to the Axum hotel and then to his wifes' sisters' house. The house was about a 30 min walk from the hotel through the back streets of Mekele and past the market. The streets of Mekele are slowly being transformed in to cobbled pavements and not the usual mud dirt tracks.
So we ate lamb BBQ, injerra and a few beers. I guss I m anot a fan of the injerra and various spicey dishes that come with it. But the company was great. Meeting Mullo, his wife and their 2 children ass well as his relatives. Language as usual was a challenge as Mullo was the only one to speak English.
The following day a visit to the Regional Laboratory at Ayder Hospital in Mekele for my project and then a drive back to Hawzen. Ethiopian New Year was a blast.
Without waiting too long I headed to the supermarket for some essentials, that I had been missing in Hawzen. Cheese, tuna and chips.
That evening we went to the Top View restaraunt just off the ring road - nice food with a great night and day time view of the city.
Saturday was a bit laid back as sometimes it can be as plans for a hike turned into nought. We then went to the Ethnography Museum of Ethiopia at the University of Addis Ababa (http://www.addisculturetourism.gov.et/en/tourism-research-addis-ababa-ethiopia-3/item/110-ethnographic-museum-content.html ). Not enough time of 1 hr as we started to be edged out after only 30 min with the museum looking to close earlier than advertised.
Another great evening meal and show at Jazzeemba, a new jazz club and as we found out other types of music. The club is located at the oldest hotel in Ethiopia, Taitu. Rather than jazz, we came in to listen to 80's retro in English and possibly Amharic. Difficult to tell with so many languages but I am learning to differentiate music styles and associated ethnic styles. The night was still young so we went to a night club near the hotel and listened to Kenny Allen and the 251 Band (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5GXrcn-L18) . Kenny Allen is a Washington DC native who has been in Addis Ababa for 6 years and playing western and ethiopian music with different people before putting his band together.
Sunday was a brigfht day, New Years eve. The GSK folks based here got together to visit Entoto, a village with 2 churches and a palace on the highest mountain close to Addis Ababa. At 10,000 feet it is another level of endurance and breathing effort. But having been at 5,000 feet for the past 3 weeks I am in better shape to cope. As we drove up we saw herds of sheep coming from the rural villages to be sold for New Years eve dinners. As well, women and donkeys were bringing large amounts of wood down for bonfires that night.
The palace of Emperor Menelik overlooks the city of Addis Ababa through a forest of eucalypts. This is where he was born. The church in frotn was built to comemerate his birth place. The churches and palace were intersting. A second church was a further 5 km along the road and was a rock hewn church which was later replaced by a stand alone church. This church had beautiful paintings of biblical scenes.
In th evening we went to Yod Abyssinia, a cultural restraunt of which there are many in Addis Ababa. Music, song and dance from the different regions of Ethiopia in a program of just over 3 hrs was enjoyed. Despite it being a show it did demonstrate the vibrance of Ethiopian culture.
One of the MVP girls from Addis Ababa office then took us to the Ethiomillenium nightclub for the ethiopian version of a night club/disco. All music was ethiopian and the dancing was very much the shoulder dancing style. Men dancing with men and few couples on the floor. Again very friendly people for us 5 ferenjes in this night club.
Ironically New Year came and went without a countdown to midnight nor even a comment from the DJ. It took us 5 ferenjes to scream out Happy New Year and even then we were not noticed.
New Years Day 2004, found me tired and packing for the trip back to Hawzen. The flight back was uneventful, but landed to have our colleague Mullo meet us, take us to the Axum hotel and then to his wifes' sisters' house. The house was about a 30 min walk from the hotel through the back streets of Mekele and past the market. The streets of Mekele are slowly being transformed in to cobbled pavements and not the usual mud dirt tracks.
So we ate lamb BBQ, injerra and a few beers. I guss I m anot a fan of the injerra and various spicey dishes that come with it. But the company was great. Meeting Mullo, his wife and their 2 children ass well as his relatives. Language as usual was a challenge as Mullo was the only one to speak English.
The following day a visit to the Regional Laboratory at Ayder Hospital in Mekele for my project and then a drive back to Hawzen. Ethiopian New Year was a blast.
Monday 5 September 2011
Finding a saint
Today was another fine start. We left in a 4WD to head via Megab and Degum to Wukro to visit a Spanish priest who had set up a school for orphans and an agricultural school at Wukro. Father Angel. Passing through Megab and Degum we had a view again of village lifestyles on a Sunday morning,
The drive took us past 2 rock hewn churches at Mikael Minda and Abreha We Atsbeha, about 17 km and 21 km from Megab on the road to Wukro. Both churches were in a rich green valley with beautiful views. Only Abreha We Atsbeha was opened by the priest for 100 birr and then to see the museum for another 50 birr. I must say it was quite interestinto see the rock paintings, clearer than othe rchurches I had seen.
The arrival in Wukro at the Wukro Agriculture College was quick enough as we proceeded through town and finally arrived at the College to be greeted by Father Angel and 2 visiting British optometrists. We were shown around the complex, seeing the large orchards and fields of fruit, salad and vegetables, heow shed fro milk, dorm accomodation, a communal dining room -the site reminded me of a kibbutz. About 15 Spanish volunteers were on site to help withe operations and withe te children. On average they were there for about 2-4 weeks. But I had the impression they did not go often into the town. We were able to speak to Father Angel over lunch, but as usual with the spanish, a siesta was required. after lunch.
Leaving Wukro we visited Wukros Chikos church, A some what delapidated church, with beggars and children pestering us. But it had a rich history of some 1400 years.
Up he road to Sinkata we had decided to visit the Adi Chewa Arbuti Insesa church just outside Sinakat. We could see the church, the rock cliffe wall from the road as it had a distinctive blue cross on its door. However, due to roadworks around Sinkata we had some diffciulty finding a way to it. We finally got within 1.5 km after running out of gravel track, and proceeded to be led /accompanied by about 5 children, that grew to about 12 by the time we reached the church. The walk through fields and past a waterfall and creek and squalking of a large beak billed bird, we climbed the 100 m or so of stairs to the cliff ledge. Howver, as usual no priest and no key to enter.
The drive took us past 2 rock hewn churches at Mikael Minda and Abreha We Atsbeha, about 17 km and 21 km from Megab on the road to Wukro. Both churches were in a rich green valley with beautiful views. Only Abreha We Atsbeha was opened by the priest for 100 birr and then to see the museum for another 50 birr. I must say it was quite interestinto see the rock paintings, clearer than othe rchurches I had seen.
The arrival in Wukro at the Wukro Agriculture College was quick enough as we proceeded through town and finally arrived at the College to be greeted by Father Angel and 2 visiting British optometrists. We were shown around the complex, seeing the large orchards and fields of fruit, salad and vegetables, heow shed fro milk, dorm accomodation, a communal dining room -the site reminded me of a kibbutz. About 15 Spanish volunteers were on site to help withe operations and withe te children. On average they were there for about 2-4 weeks. But I had the impression they did not go often into the town. We were able to speak to Father Angel over lunch, but as usual with the spanish, a siesta was required. after lunch.
Leaving Wukro we visited Wukros Chikos church, A some what delapidated church, with beggars and children pestering us. But it had a rich history of some 1400 years.
Up he road to Sinkata we had decided to visit the Adi Chewa Arbuti Insesa church just outside Sinakat. We could see the church, the rock cliffe wall from the road as it had a distinctive blue cross on its door. However, due to roadworks around Sinkata we had some diffciulty finding a way to it. We finally got within 1.5 km after running out of gravel track, and proceeded to be led /accompanied by about 5 children, that grew to about 12 by the time we reached the church. The walk through fields and past a waterfall and creek and squalking of a large beak billed bird, we climbed the 100 m or so of stairs to the cliff ledge. Howver, as usual no priest and no key to enter.
Sunday 4 September 2011
A week is a long way to walk
Its been a week packed with exciting and frustrating activities. Last Monday, I finally started my assignment proper visiting the Hawzen Health Centre Laboartory to review their procedures and facilities. An eye opener into laboratory design, infrastructure, operations and making do with what you have with limited budget.
Tuesday and Wedensday were lost but for a good cause. Went with Delphine (the other GSK Volunteer here) to Mekele to the George Markos clinic to get her stomach ailment checked out. The ride to Mekele was with Yanis, my Earth Institute, Columbia University manager who returned to US on Tuesday. We found the clinic and then our hotel as we needed to stay the night for the tests to be complete.
The clinic was dark, no lights and the laboartory operated under candle power. The day was the end of Ramadan so was in fact a holiday. The clinic was due to open about 4pm, with first patients seen by about 5 pm. Pathology was slow for a number of reasons and so Delphine had to return the following day for further tests. Luckily all turned out to be OK with no parasites, but results from a candle powered lab makes me think quality is an issue.
The short stay enabled us to see abit of Mekele as best as it could be done under the circumstances. A walk around the market showed te typical food and house hold products as well as live animals for sale.
A delayed pick up by a MVP car taking Safa (Columbia PhD student looking at oral health at MVP) enabled us to get back to Hawzen by 4pm.
Thursday turned out to e a great day in the laboarory at Megab where I looked at the laboratory procedures and systems. Limited diagnostics capabilities and no Quality Control and a technician who had taken only 18 days of annual leave in 10 years made her role that more admirable.
On Friday back to Hawzen laboratory for another visit as the organisation of cars, despite being prebooked did not happen and enable a return visit to Megab.
At Gheralta you meet intersting people. Yohaniis a German living in Brazil and in Ethiopia for a climate audit went off for 4 days trekking in the mountains with a guide and 2 donekys, and then a few days later we hear from another traveller Chris who worked for Accenture and who had been a volunteer with Catholic Relief in Kenya, had been a on a 2 day trip with Yohannis in the Danikil. Or the British diplomat or the American who was part of the US delegation to the African Union or the German professor who was Dean of Engineerng at an Ethiopian University. travellers passing through, repeating your story...to every traveller.
Saturday aarrived and we decided to walk the 9 km from Hawzen to Megab, a down hill walk most of the way. The walk in the morning took us almost 2 hrs. Along the way we met with various people walking to or from Megab. Language was a barrier in taling with anyone an dteh call sof ferenje and waves from kids gave some reality that we were in Ethiopia. I still see so many eucalypts I often feel at home in Australia. A limited number of cars or trucks passing, showed that it is tough to get around in the rural areas. Prior to arriving in Megab, a photograph of 2 camels and their drivers left me with abuse and almost a stick beating from one of the drivers. Luckily were accompanied by other travellers who chased him off.
Arriving in Megab we were greeted by ferenje calls and guides wanting to take to churches we had already seen. I wanted to catch up withe the heafd of teh health cenmtere but he had gone to Hawzen.
A walk around the market where everything and anything was on sale in the open, a drink and then we were on the road back to Hawzen.
Tuesday and Wedensday were lost but for a good cause. Went with Delphine (the other GSK Volunteer here) to Mekele to the George Markos clinic to get her stomach ailment checked out. The ride to Mekele was with Yanis, my Earth Institute, Columbia University manager who returned to US on Tuesday. We found the clinic and then our hotel as we needed to stay the night for the tests to be complete.
The clinic was dark, no lights and the laboartory operated under candle power. The day was the end of Ramadan so was in fact a holiday. The clinic was due to open about 4pm, with first patients seen by about 5 pm. Pathology was slow for a number of reasons and so Delphine had to return the following day for further tests. Luckily all turned out to be OK with no parasites, but results from a candle powered lab makes me think quality is an issue.
The short stay enabled us to see abit of Mekele as best as it could be done under the circumstances. A walk around the market showed te typical food and house hold products as well as live animals for sale.
A delayed pick up by a MVP car taking Safa (Columbia PhD student looking at oral health at MVP) enabled us to get back to Hawzen by 4pm.
Thursday turned out to e a great day in the laboarory at Megab where I looked at the laboratory procedures and systems. Limited diagnostics capabilities and no Quality Control and a technician who had taken only 18 days of annual leave in 10 years made her role that more admirable.
On Friday back to Hawzen laboratory for another visit as the organisation of cars, despite being prebooked did not happen and enable a return visit to Megab.
At Gheralta you meet intersting people. Yohaniis a German living in Brazil and in Ethiopia for a climate audit went off for 4 days trekking in the mountains with a guide and 2 donekys, and then a few days later we hear from another traveller Chris who worked for Accenture and who had been a volunteer with Catholic Relief in Kenya, had been a on a 2 day trip with Yohannis in the Danikil. Or the British diplomat or the American who was part of the US delegation to the African Union or the German professor who was Dean of Engineerng at an Ethiopian University. travellers passing through, repeating your story...to every traveller.
Saturday aarrived and we decided to walk the 9 km from Hawzen to Megab, a down hill walk most of the way. The walk in the morning took us almost 2 hrs. Along the way we met with various people walking to or from Megab. Language was a barrier in taling with anyone an dteh call sof ferenje and waves from kids gave some reality that we were in Ethiopia. I still see so many eucalypts I often feel at home in Australia. A limited number of cars or trucks passing, showed that it is tough to get around in the rural areas. Prior to arriving in Megab, a photograph of 2 camels and their drivers left me with abuse and almost a stick beating from one of the drivers. Luckily were accompanied by other travellers who chased him off.
Arriving in Megab we were greeted by ferenje calls and guides wanting to take to churches we had already seen. I wanted to catch up withe the heafd of teh health cenmtere but he had gone to Hawzen.
A walk around the market where everything and anything was on sale in the open, a drink and then we were on the road back to Hawzen.
More churches and a home invitation
The plan for today was to visit 4 churches, Petris, Paulo, Mikael Melehayzenghi and Medhane Alem Adi Kasho all located to the east of the Wukro - Sinkata road. Delphine coulnt make it due to stomach bug, so Yanis and I walked thogh the town to the office to see where the MVP driver was who would be taking us. At the office was Day 3 of training for Community Health Workers on Child Count.
W attended for a few minutes the session and were introduced by Dr Aregawe. The attendees were about 40 women , some with babies breastfeeding during the class.
Brook came in and we headed off to the churches in the Sinkat area. Along the way we saw a couple of MVP projects - a water hole and reservoir.
Arriving at the first church Petros we had to walk up a hill and then climb about 30 m up a rickety old wooden ladder arrangement attached to the vertical cliff. reaching the top we had to wait for the priest to come and unlock the door. Once we paid our fee, he unlocked the door and we entered. The church was about 1400 y but I have my doubts about Ethiopian measurement of time. The rock walls were covered in paintings that looked not more than a few hundred years compared to Maryam Korkor, that we visited the day before.. We then descended and visited the nearby Paulos church which had similar paintings.
We then drove about 2 km to the Mikael Melehayzenghi church where again after a short hike up a hill we found a rock hewn church opened by another priest. Inside we found some very clear rock wall paintings of saints and biblical scenes. The priest took out a bible written in the ancient language of Geez and which also had some very clear paintings of saints on the inside cover.
Driving onto th next church, Medhane Alem Adi Kasho, a further 3 km, I was stunned by the rural setting and people, especially the kids. The kids and older people were in dirty shredded rags and up close looked like they rarely washed themselves. With such poor infrastructure, so many people, and a challenging environment the contrast to our industrial society is marked.
In the afternoon we headed back to Hawzen negotiating some flooded roads and a causeway from the heavy rains over the Hawzen area, about an hour earlier, We had been invited to Brooks house for lunch and coffee (buna). We picked up Delpine from the lodge. Brook lives not too far from the office. His wife Tua and girls Belin and Mahalit were there. Lunch was lentils and salad with injera and bread, followed by coffee. Brook's english is limited so it was challenging to talk but we managed.
Brooks house is within a set of 3 houses in a long concrete building each with 1-2 rooms. Brooks house has 2 rooms, a combination lounge/dining room and kitchen/bedroom.
I was impressed with what he had done with his home. he had moved his family from Addis Ababa to take thsi job with MVP for the next few years.
W attended for a few minutes the session and were introduced by Dr Aregawe. The attendees were about 40 women , some with babies breastfeeding during the class.
Brook came in and we headed off to the churches in the Sinkat area. Along the way we saw a couple of MVP projects - a water hole and reservoir.
Arriving at the first church Petros we had to walk up a hill and then climb about 30 m up a rickety old wooden ladder arrangement attached to the vertical cliff. reaching the top we had to wait for the priest to come and unlock the door. Once we paid our fee, he unlocked the door and we entered. The church was about 1400 y but I have my doubts about Ethiopian measurement of time. The rock walls were covered in paintings that looked not more than a few hundred years compared to Maryam Korkor, that we visited the day before.. We then descended and visited the nearby Paulos church which had similar paintings.
We then drove about 2 km to the Mikael Melehayzenghi church where again after a short hike up a hill we found a rock hewn church opened by another priest. Inside we found some very clear rock wall paintings of saints and biblical scenes. The priest took out a bible written in the ancient language of Geez and which also had some very clear paintings of saints on the inside cover.
Driving onto th next church, Medhane Alem Adi Kasho, a further 3 km, I was stunned by the rural setting and people, especially the kids. The kids and older people were in dirty shredded rags and up close looked like they rarely washed themselves. With such poor infrastructure, so many people, and a challenging environment the contrast to our industrial society is marked.
In the afternoon we headed back to Hawzen negotiating some flooded roads and a causeway from the heavy rains over the Hawzen area, about an hour earlier, We had been invited to Brooks house for lunch and coffee (buna). We picked up Delpine from the lodge. Brook lives not too far from the office. His wife Tua and girls Belin and Mahalit were there. Lunch was lentils and salad with injera and bread, followed by coffee. Brook's english is limited so it was challenging to talk but we managed.
Brooks house is within a set of 3 houses in a long concrete building each with 1-2 rooms. Brooks house has 2 rooms, a combination lounge/dining room and kitchen/bedroom.
I was impressed with what he had done with his home. he had moved his family from Addis Ababa to take thsi job with MVP for the next few years.
Saturday 27 August 2011
The cliff churches of Tigray
Saturday morning and my first free weekend. With Yanis, Delphine, and Brook the driver from MVP, we headed to climb to the churches of Mariam Korkor and Daniel Korkor, which is the cliff top churches on the mountain directly opposite as viewed from my Lodge room. The drive to Mageb was quick, picking up water and Haftu, a guide recommended by Sarah. A short drive out of town, we entered the road to the climb starting point. The cliffs looked even higher close up and we were going up them, but how? was I fit enough or was the challenge as I found out due to lack of oxygen.
We set off on the 3 part climb, paid our 100 Birr each for entrance to the church. We then went up a narrow gorge with loose rock, about 20 min, although I had to stop every 10 m which made it even longer. This was part 1, a climb of about 200 m at a 60 angle. There climb was narrow enough that we were able to hold onto teh sides. Conming out on a plateau, we found the site of first attempt to build a church. During the ascent we had been joined by an elderly guy who accompanied us for the rest of the trek.
A number of men and women were coming down after a long night in the church due to a service. We also had encountered a German but living in Brazil, Yohanis , whom we had met at the Lodge and was embarking on a 4 day trek with guide and donkey in the Gheralta region. He had spent the night camping at the church site.
The next part of the climb was another more scary climb up a rock face that was at about 60-80o angle. As i sdiscovered thsi was te male route. Only holding points were the rocks themselves and footholds worn into the rocks. Another slow climb due to my lack of oxygen. So I managed to get to the next ledge with the help of the guide and elderly gentleman.
From there it was basically an easy slope up to the almost top of the plateau where the church was located. Soem areas near teh church reminded m eof the books that have the "100" most challenged golf holes in the world - this woule be one of them.
The Mariam Korkor church has a 75 year old priest who after checking th ereceipt of our ticket opened up the lock on the church door. The church itself was built into the cliff face. After removing our shoes, and rolling our socks over our trousers to minimize fleas getting up our legs and a quick spray of insect repellant we entered - one entry for males and one entry for females. Inside the church there were 4 rock hewn columsn remaining that suporte dteh roof with paintings some what faded as they were over 1400 years old. The church was devided into 3 areas, i) general seating, ii) a priest area and iii) holy of holy's where a copy of the Ark of the Covenant was placed and which we could not eneter. Haftu explained the paintings and we sat in the semi-darkness absorbing it all.
We then left the church put on our shoes and walked around the cliff face to another smaller church - daniel Korkor (about 6 x 6 m) built into the rocks. The priest unlocked the door, no larger than 0.5 by 1 m, through ,after removing our shoes, we squeezed in. The paintings were in a much better state and we could see all the colours. However, no flash photography was allowed so the pictures I took were the best I could get. We then passed throug ha small tunnel into a smaller chamber which was described as the holy of holy's. Minimal wall paintings but non the less interesting. We left this small church and made our way further along the cliff face to an open cave in which baptisms occurred.
Back around the way we came we climbed a bit further up to a series of caves in which children of about 12-14 years of age lived (in priest training) and a claimed 120 year old bedridden priest - a predecessor of the current priest. The ancient priest rose with help from his bed to greet us. The room he was in was dark and smelt of olive wood smoke from a small charcoal fire burning in the corner. Further back in the cave was another room for the 2 women who looked after him - one of them a nun. I cant imagine living in a cave , smelling of smoke, and no good ventilation.
After about an hour in the church area we headed on down to the car. This time we went by the "female" route to avoid the "scarey" part experienced on the climb up. This was a gradual descent circular descent.
We then reached the car and paid the elderly guide. Haftu worked as part of the Gheralta Guide Association and for a reasonable (at least to me) 250 birr for the 3 of us (about $5 each) he had provided good explanations over 4 hrs. We had to pay this at the Association office in Mageb. In Mageb we had planned to visit the market, but as we were stopped we were mobbed as "ferenje", kids asking for birr.
We set off on the 3 part climb, paid our 100 Birr each for entrance to the church. We then went up a narrow gorge with loose rock, about 20 min, although I had to stop every 10 m which made it even longer. This was part 1, a climb of about 200 m at a 60 angle. There climb was narrow enough that we were able to hold onto teh sides. Conming out on a plateau, we found the site of first attempt to build a church. During the ascent we had been joined by an elderly guy who accompanied us for the rest of the trek.
A number of men and women were coming down after a long night in the church due to a service. We also had encountered a German but living in Brazil, Yohanis , whom we had met at the Lodge and was embarking on a 4 day trek with guide and donkey in the Gheralta region. He had spent the night camping at the church site.
The next part of the climb was another more scary climb up a rock face that was at about 60-80o angle. As i sdiscovered thsi was te male route. Only holding points were the rocks themselves and footholds worn into the rocks. Another slow climb due to my lack of oxygen. So I managed to get to the next ledge with the help of the guide and elderly gentleman.
From there it was basically an easy slope up to the almost top of the plateau where the church was located. Soem areas near teh church reminded m eof the books that have the "100" most challenged golf holes in the world - this woule be one of them.
The Mariam Korkor church has a 75 year old priest who after checking th ereceipt of our ticket opened up the lock on the church door. The church itself was built into the cliff face. After removing our shoes, and rolling our socks over our trousers to minimize fleas getting up our legs and a quick spray of insect repellant we entered - one entry for males and one entry for females. Inside the church there were 4 rock hewn columsn remaining that suporte dteh roof with paintings some what faded as they were over 1400 years old. The church was devided into 3 areas, i) general seating, ii) a priest area and iii) holy of holy's where a copy of the Ark of the Covenant was placed and which we could not eneter. Haftu explained the paintings and we sat in the semi-darkness absorbing it all.
We then left the church put on our shoes and walked around the cliff face to another smaller church - daniel Korkor (about 6 x 6 m) built into the rocks. The priest unlocked the door, no larger than 0.5 by 1 m, through ,after removing our shoes, we squeezed in. The paintings were in a much better state and we could see all the colours. However, no flash photography was allowed so the pictures I took were the best I could get. We then passed throug ha small tunnel into a smaller chamber which was described as the holy of holy's. Minimal wall paintings but non the less interesting. We left this small church and made our way further along the cliff face to an open cave in which baptisms occurred.
Back around the way we came we climbed a bit further up to a series of caves in which children of about 12-14 years of age lived (in priest training) and a claimed 120 year old bedridden priest - a predecessor of the current priest. The ancient priest rose with help from his bed to greet us. The room he was in was dark and smelt of olive wood smoke from a small charcoal fire burning in the corner. Further back in the cave was another room for the 2 women who looked after him - one of them a nun. I cant imagine living in a cave , smelling of smoke, and no good ventilation.
After about an hour in the church area we headed on down to the car. This time we went by the "female" route to avoid the "scarey" part experienced on the climb up. This was a gradual descent circular descent.
We then reached the car and paid the elderly guide. Haftu worked as part of the Gheralta Guide Association and for a reasonable (at least to me) 250 birr for the 3 of us (about $5 each) he had provided good explanations over 4 hrs. We had to pay this at the Association office in Mageb. In Mageb we had planned to visit the market, but as we were stopped we were mobbed as "ferenje", kids asking for birr.
Settled and on board with Millenium Village Project
The first two days at the Millenium office were hectic. A driver had been arranged and Yanis, Delphine, Mullo (Community Health), Sayit (Health Sector worker) and myself headed out to the 3 laboratories that I will be auditing and implementing recommendations. My expectations were zero and went with open mind.
The first laboratory was at Koraro about 28 km drive along unpaved roads ( all roads are upaved) to the west of Hawzen. The laboratory is based in a Health Centre, common to all village areas, which serve a population of about 25,000. The health centre was off the main road and at the end of 1.5 km dirt track. After that we headed back to Mageb, a town about 9 km west of Hawzen which also has a laboratory.
Finally , on the following day we visited Hawzen Health Centre which has laboartory, probably the best I have seen.
We also managed to visit 3 Health posts near Hawzen that cater for about 5,000 people each with ante-natal care, general ahealth advice and Rapid Diagnostic Testing for malaria. Near one health post we visited a church which had holy water running out of the hill side.
Enjoyed tow days of lunches at Ethiopian restraunts whic serve only Ethiopian food. How teh kitchens operate is an eye opener, all heating is over charcoal making kitchens very hot, and preparation is done in 2 or 3 rooms, depending on space.
I am finally settling in after two days, cultural shock is over as where I am is for the next 6 mths and it is what it is. What dissapoints me is that everyone is out for money especially from us "ferenje". Walking back from work Friday evening we were accompanied most of the way by a 17 year old girl who spoke reasonable English. We had in fact taken a back street to avoid the singing Ashende girls wanting money. She wanted to be a doctor. As we turned into the Lodge she asked us for money for books. We could see it coming but it spoiled the previous 15 min of chat and interaction. We offered to help her with her English but she was non-commital.
The first laboratory was at Koraro about 28 km drive along unpaved roads ( all roads are upaved) to the west of Hawzen. The laboratory is based in a Health Centre, common to all village areas, which serve a population of about 25,000. The health centre was off the main road and at the end of 1.5 km dirt track. After that we headed back to Mageb, a town about 9 km west of Hawzen which also has a laboratory.
Finally , on the following day we visited Hawzen Health Centre which has laboartory, probably the best I have seen.
We also managed to visit 3 Health posts near Hawzen that cater for about 5,000 people each with ante-natal care, general ahealth advice and Rapid Diagnostic Testing for malaria. Near one health post we visited a church which had holy water running out of the hill side.
Enjoyed tow days of lunches at Ethiopian restraunts whic serve only Ethiopian food. How teh kitchens operate is an eye opener, all heating is over charcoal making kitchens very hot, and preparation is done in 2 or 3 rooms, depending on space.
I am finally settling in after two days, cultural shock is over as where I am is for the next 6 mths and it is what it is. What dissapoints me is that everyone is out for money especially from us "ferenje". Walking back from work Friday evening we were accompanied most of the way by a 17 year old girl who spoke reasonable English. We had in fact taken a back street to avoid the singing Ashende girls wanting money. She wanted to be a doctor. As we turned into the Lodge she asked us for money for books. We could see it coming but it spoiled the previous 15 min of chat and interaction. We offered to help her with her English but she was non-commital.
The trip to Hawzen
My project manager Yanis Ben Amor from Earth Institute at Columbia University had arrived Tuesday night and togetehr Wednesday morning we checked out and headed to the airport for the flight to Mekele. Enetring the aiprort an dterminal involved itinerary and identification check, baggage search and pad down. Lining up involved another intinerary and identification check before actual check in. This went reasonably smoothly as after that we just walked through to the general terminal area. Another hand luggage check brought us into the gate area. The terminal was simple and as found in most buildings very few lights on as power was conserved.
Our flight was delayed about 45 min for unknown reasons but we got off the ground in a turbo prop 50 seater and had a smooth flight through some specatacular cloud formations to Mekele. Landing at the airport we then picked up our luggage and exited through another group of Ashende girls singing and asking for money. We were met by Millenium driver Brook. We piled into the truck and began the drive (ultimately 2.5 hrs) to Hawzen.
The drive through some spectacular countryside and passing through a number of rural towns. I saw many groves of eucalypts. Along and on the roads were donkeys, sheep and goats as well as groups of people and again the ashende girls dancing and singing blocking our truck. The road north was mostly paved and it was only the last 45 min that was gravel road. We arrived in Hawzen, the third oldest town in Ethiopia. It was also the site of a government air raid in 1997 on the market that killed over 2500 people.
Wednesday was market day in the region and so driving through 2 of the towns we were greeted by people around open air markets, bartering and buying and some taking delivery of food aid.
Hawzen is a typical rural town with only one modern 6 storey building that I saw - a hotel. The MVP office was opposite. The MVP office was a cluster of 3 long building around a courtyard, in which offices were base. I met Dr Aregawe who heads up the MVP in Koraro region. A brief introduction with others and fellow Pulse volunteer Delphine Charles.
We were then driven to Gheralta Lodge, about 5 min drive (20-25 min walk to office) to the west of the town. It is a cluster of building or lodges from which you walk to the main building for dinner, drinks and general relaxtion like reading and chatting. Many tourists stay in this lodge as they pass through the region. It was developed by an Italian couple, Erica and Silvio Rizzotti (http://www.gheraltalodgetigrai.com/).
The sights, sounds and aromas in the villages will need some exploration in future weeks.
Our flight was delayed about 45 min for unknown reasons but we got off the ground in a turbo prop 50 seater and had a smooth flight through some specatacular cloud formations to Mekele. Landing at the airport we then picked up our luggage and exited through another group of Ashende girls singing and asking for money. We were met by Millenium driver Brook. We piled into the truck and began the drive (ultimately 2.5 hrs) to Hawzen.
The drive through some spectacular countryside and passing through a number of rural towns. I saw many groves of eucalypts. Along and on the roads were donkeys, sheep and goats as well as groups of people and again the ashende girls dancing and singing blocking our truck. The road north was mostly paved and it was only the last 45 min that was gravel road. We arrived in Hawzen, the third oldest town in Ethiopia. It was also the site of a government air raid in 1997 on the market that killed over 2500 people.
Wednesday was market day in the region and so driving through 2 of the towns we were greeted by people around open air markets, bartering and buying and some taking delivery of food aid.
Hawzen is a typical rural town with only one modern 6 storey building that I saw - a hotel. The MVP office was opposite. The MVP office was a cluster of 3 long building around a courtyard, in which offices were base. I met Dr Aregawe who heads up the MVP in Koraro region. A brief introduction with others and fellow Pulse volunteer Delphine Charles.
We were then driven to Gheralta Lodge, about 5 min drive (20-25 min walk to office) to the west of the town. It is a cluster of building or lodges from which you walk to the main building for dinner, drinks and general relaxtion like reading and chatting. Many tourists stay in this lodge as they pass through the region. It was developed by an Italian couple, Erica and Silvio Rizzotti (http://www.gheraltalodgetigrai.com/).
The sights, sounds and aromas in the villages will need some exploration in future weeks.
Wednesday 24 August 2011
Some defining moments - meeting the boss
Another early morning rainstorm. I packed my second suitcase to drop off at GSK House while I am up north. I called Yenene (another "GSK" approved taxi driver) and he was at the hotel within 5 min. He took me around to GSK House. Heard from Sarah that Dr Awash would be in the office today. I dropped off my suitcase and we headed to the office. Met Laura, Bridget and Hiwot on the road heading to coffee as power was out. We sat at a shop for coffee and chai near MVP office and chatted for a while until the music came on which indicated that power was restored to the area.
I met Dr Awash, head of MVP in Ethiopia, a distinguished doctor. We discussed the project and what I though it would be doing. Not to dissimilar to the brief of bringing some system and organisation to the 4 laboratories in the MVP cluster. I was particularly interested in his explanation of how the health system operates.
The health system in Tigray as in other provinces is a tiered system. Starting with a major teaching hospital in the capital in Mekele and a few other smaller hospitals to district hospital in the larger cities, district hopsitals in some towns, to Health Centers in large villages and finally health posts in villages serving about 5,000 people. th ehealth centers serve up to 5 villages or about 25,000 people. The Health Posts have maybe 2 Health Extension Workers who provide programme support and initial oversight of patients. The Health Centers have a number of trained health workers who provide effective diagnosis (where appropriate) and treatment and in the case of Millennmu Villages at Koraro, Rapid Diagnosis Tests (RDT). A positive test result is immediately treated where negative results in referal to a larger testing site.
At the core of Health Extension Program implementation is a sizeable cadre of new Health Extension Workers (HEWs), who are trained in a one-year programme to implement a Health Extension Package of 16 healthcare activities at the kebele (village) level. By 2010, 30,000 health extension workers (HEWs), almost all young women from the communities they serve, will be trained and distributed in pairs to live and work at the village-level throughout the country.
The HEP (Health Extension program) promotes four areas of care: Disease Prevention and Control, Family Health, Hygiene and Environmental Sanitation, and Health Education and Communication. HEWs spend 75 percent of their time visiting families in their homes and performing outreach activities in the community. They spend the remaining 25 percent of their time providing services at the health posts, including giving immunizations and injectable contraceptives, among other health and educational services.
I also met Alem, Sarahs boss who showed me some of his travel pictures and told me that his sister and her husband live in Melbourne.
I met Dr Awash, head of MVP in Ethiopia, a distinguished doctor. We discussed the project and what I though it would be doing. Not to dissimilar to the brief of bringing some system and organisation to the 4 laboratories in the MVP cluster. I was particularly interested in his explanation of how the health system operates.
The health system in Tigray as in other provinces is a tiered system. Starting with a major teaching hospital in the capital in Mekele and a few other smaller hospitals to district hospital in the larger cities, district hopsitals in some towns, to Health Centers in large villages and finally health posts in villages serving about 5,000 people. th ehealth centers serve up to 5 villages or about 25,000 people. The Health Posts have maybe 2 Health Extension Workers who provide programme support and initial oversight of patients. The Health Centers have a number of trained health workers who provide effective diagnosis (where appropriate) and treatment and in the case of Millennmu Villages at Koraro, Rapid Diagnosis Tests (RDT). A positive test result is immediately treated where negative results in referal to a larger testing site.
At the core of Health Extension Program implementation is a sizeable cadre of new Health Extension Workers (HEWs), who are trained in a one-year programme to implement a Health Extension Package of 16 healthcare activities at the kebele (village) level. By 2010, 30,000 health extension workers (HEWs), almost all young women from the communities they serve, will be trained and distributed in pairs to live and work at the village-level throughout the country.
The HEP (Health Extension program) promotes four areas of care: Disease Prevention and Control, Family Health, Hygiene and Environmental Sanitation, and Health Education and Communication. HEWs spend 75 percent of their time visiting families in their homes and performing outreach activities in the community. They spend the remaining 25 percent of their time providing services at the health posts, including giving immunizations and injectable contraceptives, among other health and educational services.
I also met Alem, Sarahs boss who showed me some of his travel pictures and told me that his sister and her husband live in Melbourne.
Monday 22 August 2011
Becoming ethiopian
This morning got up with the intention to go for a long walk or do gym. A rain storm at 5 am put that notion to bed.
Instead had beakfast, called Wendensen, the local "GSK" approved taxi driver and got myself just after 8 am to the internet shops near edna mall, opposite the Medhane Alem Cathedral.
I went in to the only open shop of 4, and was told that the modems were 1700 - 1900 birr ( about $120). Nearly feel over as didnt expect it to be so much. Apologised and retreated to the ATM in the adjacent mall and luckly got some money out. Went back only to find that shop closed and noteh ropen, The cost was higher at 1955 birr and afre some failed negotiation bought it. After the paper work was filled in went upstairs to the Ethiopian Telecommunication office to register the modem - another 230 birr. After about 20 min back to the shop to buy the pre-paid cards ( 700 birr for 4GB a month) whilc is recharged on the first of every month. Needed about 2 mths worth as these cards may not be available up north.
I had been watching all the people entering the cathedral grounds opposite for the end of the fast days and celebrating the feast day. I wandered over and watched awhile - so passionate are people about their christianity, I was impressed. Later having a coffee the ashedne girls came singing and dancing along the street.
(its one not too dissimilar to what I saw). The festival Ashenda is a Tigraian traditional festival which takes place in August to mark the ending of fasting called filseta. This event is mostly for girls and young women, which they await very eagerly every year. It is unique to the people in the state of Tigrai which is in northern Ethiopia. The name of the festival "Ashenda" comes from the name of a tall grass that the girls make into a skirt and wear it around their waist as a decoration.
i got into teh office for teh first time and meet up with Bridget and Laura and was introduced to all the folks. The office is located in Haya Hayulet area. It is a fascinating area with clothes shops and other household items, live sheep and goats everywhere.
We went for lunch ( Birkti, Laura, Bridget and myself ) down the muddy and water filled street. We passesd a 24 hr condom stall and finally made it to a restaraunt which served kitfo (raw meat) and Tibs ( cooked meat) wrapped in enjera and dipped in a spicey sauce. The restaraunt had a hut where men were cutting raw meat from hooks into pieces to be served. We sat in a courtyard area and placed an order - the cooked meat was a bit dry but tasty with the sauce. We then strolled back and sat in a coffee shop for a while, watching kids wsh cars, shoeshine boys offer to do our shoes and a couple of beggars.
It was an intersting day, immersing more into ethiopian culture.
Instead had beakfast, called Wendensen, the local "GSK" approved taxi driver and got myself just after 8 am to the internet shops near edna mall, opposite the Medhane Alem Cathedral.
I went in to the only open shop of 4, and was told that the modems were 1700 - 1900 birr ( about $120). Nearly feel over as didnt expect it to be so much. Apologised and retreated to the ATM in the adjacent mall and luckly got some money out. Went back only to find that shop closed and noteh ropen, The cost was higher at 1955 birr and afre some failed negotiation bought it. After the paper work was filled in went upstairs to the Ethiopian Telecommunication office to register the modem - another 230 birr. After about 20 min back to the shop to buy the pre-paid cards ( 700 birr for 4GB a month) whilc is recharged on the first of every month. Needed about 2 mths worth as these cards may not be available up north.I had been watching all the people entering the cathedral grounds opposite for the end of the fast days and celebrating the feast day. I wandered over and watched awhile - so passionate are people about their christianity, I was impressed. Later having a coffee the ashedne girls came singing and dancing along the street.
(its one not too dissimilar to what I saw). The festival Ashenda is a Tigraian traditional festival which takes place in August to mark the ending of fasting called filseta. This event is mostly for girls and young women, which they await very eagerly every year. It is unique to the people in the state of Tigrai which is in northern Ethiopia. The name of the festival "Ashenda" comes from the name of a tall grass that the girls make into a skirt and wear it around their waist as a decoration.i got into teh office for teh first time and meet up with Bridget and Laura and was introduced to all the folks. The office is located in Haya Hayulet area. It is a fascinating area with clothes shops and other household items, live sheep and goats everywhere.
We went for lunch ( Birkti, Laura, Bridget and myself ) down the muddy and water filled street. We passesd a 24 hr condom stall and finally made it to a restaraunt which served kitfo (raw meat) and Tibs ( cooked meat) wrapped in enjera and dipped in a spicey sauce. The restaraunt had a hut where men were cutting raw meat from hooks into pieces to be served. We sat in a courtyard area and placed an order - the cooked meat was a bit dry but tasty with the sauce. We then strolled back and sat in a coffee shop for a while, watching kids wsh cars, shoeshine boys offer to do our shoes and a couple of beggars.
It was an intersting day, immersing more into ethiopian culture.
Sunday 21 August 2011
Day 2 - Settling in and familiarisation
Well after a night of chanting and dogs barking this morning, I had planned to walk down to the centre of town - about 4 km. But the rains came and so decided after a quick search of what to do, to go to the National Museum, primarily to see "Lucy". The museum was an old building - in dire need of renovation. Lucy was in the basement floor while the other floors were a mix of modern and historical artefacts and art. What can I say - saw it all in 30 mins.
The rain was still coming down so I decided to walk to the taxi rank about 200 metres down the road. I was accosted by first one then a second young men. The first later showed my a uide ID card, and was 21 , while the second was about 25, both students, struggling to live and pay rent, utilities and food of $150 per month. They stuck to me like glue, suggesting I visit a couple of churches. Well I decided to do that - the first was the Church of St Mary's a mix of Ethiopian Ortodox ( major part of church) and a second smaller part was Coptic. The mass was finishing as we entered. There has been at least a week of fasting during the day which was over and tonight would be a final big celebration. Around the church courtyard sat many people out of the rain under cover.
After visiting the church we continued our walk down the road, even with light rain and torrents of water rushin down the road and open drain pits which I need to avoid. I was struck by the number of people selling many things as well as beggars, people with deformities, blind, mothers with babies...all remaining in the rain with various degrees of clothing, filthy dirty, sandals for foot coverings. It is something I am not familiar back home, but can understand their plight as the economy cannot support these people, predominantly rural folks coming into the city as drought and hard times hit. It is I guess what we as Pulse volunteers are trying to do, overwhelming in some respects to help these people with little education.
The second church was the Holy Trinity, also burial place of Hailie Selassie. The church is adjacent to the Prime Minister soffice and peoples assembly. paying teh ticket I noticed the woman hiding what appeared to be facial injuries.This church was also finishing the mass.We managed to walk around the church and see up close the tomb and priest artifacts. I was taken aback by surprise in terms of the devotion the people had, bowing, and kissing floor and other holy objects. I even noticed people kissing the building outside. I also went into the adjacent museum which had many artifacts from 18 and 19th century, royal garments and crowns.
My two guides then stuck with me as they showed me the way back to my hotel, still pushing their story asking for over 1000 birr to pay for their room. I gave them 200 birr ($12) to thank them - proabbaly too much.
Caught up with the other Pulse folks for lunch and walked around. Accosted by more mothers with babies - and gave them a few birr, but then a whole crowd pounced on us. It took some strong language from the taxi driver to push them away. Not what we were taught in training!
So Day 2 has opened my eyes to the poverty even more so as it clashes with modern buildings going up all around at least in the Bole area.
The rain was still coming down so I decided to walk to the taxi rank about 200 metres down the road. I was accosted by first one then a second young men. The first later showed my a uide ID card, and was 21 , while the second was about 25, both students, struggling to live and pay rent, utilities and food of $150 per month. They stuck to me like glue, suggesting I visit a couple of churches. Well I decided to do that - the first was the Church of St Mary's a mix of Ethiopian Ortodox ( major part of church) and a second smaller part was Coptic. The mass was finishing as we entered. There has been at least a week of fasting during the day which was over and tonight would be a final big celebration. Around the church courtyard sat many people out of the rain under cover.
After visiting the church we continued our walk down the road, even with light rain and torrents of water rushin down the road and open drain pits which I need to avoid. I was struck by the number of people selling many things as well as beggars, people with deformities, blind, mothers with babies...all remaining in the rain with various degrees of clothing, filthy dirty, sandals for foot coverings. It is something I am not familiar back home, but can understand their plight as the economy cannot support these people, predominantly rural folks coming into the city as drought and hard times hit. It is I guess what we as Pulse volunteers are trying to do, overwhelming in some respects to help these people with little education.
The second church was the Holy Trinity, also burial place of Hailie Selassie. The church is adjacent to the Prime Minister soffice and peoples assembly. paying teh ticket I noticed the woman hiding what appeared to be facial injuries.This church was also finishing the mass.We managed to walk around the church and see up close the tomb and priest artifacts. I was taken aback by surprise in terms of the devotion the people had, bowing, and kissing floor and other holy objects. I even noticed people kissing the building outside. I also went into the adjacent museum which had many artifacts from 18 and 19th century, royal garments and crowns.
My two guides then stuck with me as they showed me the way back to my hotel, still pushing their story asking for over 1000 birr to pay for their room. I gave them 200 birr ($12) to thank them - proabbaly too much.
Caught up with the other Pulse folks for lunch and walked around. Accosted by more mothers with babies - and gave them a few birr, but then a whole crowd pounced on us. It took some strong language from the taxi driver to push them away. Not what we were taught in training!
So Day 2 has opened my eyes to the poverty even more so as it clashes with modern buildings going up all around at least in the Bole area.
Saturday 20 August 2011
First day in Ethiopia
Its Sunday morning and I have been in Addis Ababa almost 18 hrs. Its 6 am as I type, listening for the last few hours to dogs barking and the muzzein call to prayer. I look from hotel room across a shanty area towards the north east, towards hills whose names I have yet to learn, shrouded in mist.
My flight from Australia via Dubai was uneventful, although I can say dont try to have a shower at Dubai airport as you will be offered paper towels. The flight into Addis over rural areas to the south revealed a green landed with much of it dotted by pools of water from the current rain season. As we approached the airport we flew over blocks of apartments unconnected by any perceivable road - maybe a dirt track but not distinguishable. The Emirates plane landed with a thud and we taxied to the terminal.
The airport was very quiet at 11.15 am so breezed through passport control, money exchange, luggage collection and customs. Sarah Moore, Pulse's first volunteer into Ethiopia this year met me at the airport with her taxi driver. We drove out under the "Bridge" and through a roundabout with cars and donkeys with hay bales as loads, all negotiating a path. Heading northwest along Bole Road it was as I imagined from photos I had seen. As the taxi stopped in the traffic, we were approached by a mother with baby, a blind mother with son ( maybe 10 years old) seeking money for food. As we drove the buildings varied from modern to simple shacks all businesses selling something.
I must comment on the taxis. Not unlike ones I had seen elsewhere, but definitely unroadworthy back home and not a recommendation for the local tourist authority. That being said, the driver Yenene definitely knew what he was doing.
Arriving at Meskel Square, the only place with traffic lights in Addis, we paused again before heading to the hotel. Check in was quick, I got a local SIM card. Sarah and the other two Pulse volunteers in Addis, Laura and Bridget picked me about 2 hrs later and took me for my first Ethiopian meal at the "Family Restaraunt" in DZ, a local suburb- it was Ethiopian Mexican. Interestingly, many streets that do have names are named after countries. We drove past a number of public building surrounded by fence with Lion statue atop the gate posts.
My flight from Australia via Dubai was uneventful, although I can say dont try to have a shower at Dubai airport as you will be offered paper towels. The flight into Addis over rural areas to the south revealed a green landed with much of it dotted by pools of water from the current rain season. As we approached the airport we flew over blocks of apartments unconnected by any perceivable road - maybe a dirt track but not distinguishable. The Emirates plane landed with a thud and we taxied to the terminal.
The airport was very quiet at 11.15 am so breezed through passport control, money exchange, luggage collection and customs. Sarah Moore, Pulse's first volunteer into Ethiopia this year met me at the airport with her taxi driver. We drove out under the "Bridge" and through a roundabout with cars and donkeys with hay bales as loads, all negotiating a path. Heading northwest along Bole Road it was as I imagined from photos I had seen. As the taxi stopped in the traffic, we were approached by a mother with baby, a blind mother with son ( maybe 10 years old) seeking money for food. As we drove the buildings varied from modern to simple shacks all businesses selling something.
I must comment on the taxis. Not unlike ones I had seen elsewhere, but definitely unroadworthy back home and not a recommendation for the local tourist authority. That being said, the driver Yenene definitely knew what he was doing.
Arriving at Meskel Square, the only place with traffic lights in Addis, we paused again before heading to the hotel. Check in was quick, I got a local SIM card. Sarah and the other two Pulse volunteers in Addis, Laura and Bridget picked me about 2 hrs later and took me for my first Ethiopian meal at the "Family Restaraunt" in DZ, a local suburb- it was Ethiopian Mexican. Interestingly, many streets that do have names are named after countries. We drove past a number of public building surrounded by fence with Lion statue atop the gate posts.
Wednesday 17 August 2011
Last night had a family dinner at a Thai restaraunt for my birthday and farewell. Interesting presents - a book about hostage negotiation, clothes and a DVD - "Dont Mess with the Zohan.... Today is my last day at work, pizza for everyone.
My attempt to get to at least 1 of 3 Ethiopian restaraunts in Melbourne before I left was not successful.
I am still trying to figure out what to pack. With about 45 kg in 2 small suitcases of clothes, shoes, pharmaceuticals and additional possibly useful items. I am 15 kg over my baggage allowance on Emirates. That extra luggage will cost me A$1050. I have sent an e-mail to Emirates that I am going on a noble mission to Ethiopia and cant they show some pity on a volunteer.... Otherwise will have to Fedex some of it. ,,,...Well Emirates didnt come to the party, but I managed to get down to 35 kg so only about A$350, which is the same as Fedex shipment for 5 -10 kg. Will buy clothes in Addis Ababa!
Reading and watching TV about the rains in the north and central part of ethiopia and the drought in the south. All up food is scarce for all the refugees and even ethiopians themselves in the south - it is mystifying in this age why we cant help make life easier for all these people - Millenium is great in that it helps them to help themselves.
My attempt to get to at least 1 of 3 Ethiopian restaraunts in Melbourne before I left was not successful.
I am still trying to figure out what to pack. With about 45 kg in 2 small suitcases of clothes, shoes, pharmaceuticals and additional possibly useful items. I am 15 kg over my baggage allowance on Emirates. That extra luggage will cost me A$1050. I have sent an e-mail to Emirates that I am going on a noble mission to Ethiopia and cant they show some pity on a volunteer.... Otherwise will have to Fedex some of it. ,,,...Well Emirates didnt come to the party, but I managed to get down to 35 kg so only about A$350, which is the same as Fedex shipment for 5 -10 kg. Will buy clothes in Addis Ababa!
Reading and watching TV about the rains in the north and central part of ethiopia and the drought in the south. All up food is scarce for all the refugees and even ethiopians themselves in the south - it is mystifying in this age why we cant help make life easier for all these people - Millenium is great in that it helps them to help themselves.
Sunday 26 June 2011
Countdown
Well, what have I got myself into. 6 mths in Ethiopia, off the grid was quoted to me as my location. Pulse GSK a worthy cause - time with an NGO and its people.
I have managed to contact the other 4 GSK personnel going to Ethiopia, Sarah and Bridget already there, Laura and Delphine to arrive before I do. Skype is great for a quick chat which I have done a few times to learn about the challenges of daily life.
Its been interesting to talk to people about my volunteering to Ethiopia - work colleagues, friends, family. A common theme from the majority ( 70%) is that I must be crazy. Most work colleagues think I am crazy or neutral on the idea, so little support from there. Friends no more encouraging especially in relation to NGO's having no impact. Maybe there is more to be told of my story there during and after than I expected.
Well tomorrow the real pain begins - 12 injections - hepatitis, cholera, yellow fever, rabies and more.
I have managed to contact the other 4 GSK personnel going to Ethiopia, Sarah and Bridget already there, Laura and Delphine to arrive before I do. Skype is great for a quick chat which I have done a few times to learn about the challenges of daily life.
Its been interesting to talk to people about my volunteering to Ethiopia - work colleagues, friends, family. A common theme from the majority ( 70%) is that I must be crazy. Most work colleagues think I am crazy or neutral on the idea, so little support from there. Friends no more encouraging especially in relation to NGO's having no impact. Maybe there is more to be told of my story there during and after than I expected.
Well tomorrow the real pain begins - 12 injections - hepatitis, cholera, yellow fever, rabies and more.
Columbia University and the Earth Institute
I met Yanis Ben Amor today, my manager/project leader for my assignment in Ethiopia. From the Hilton Hotel on 6th Ave it was 8 stops on subway Line 1 from Columbus Circle to 116th St. A little trouble getting into the station when my multipass ticket failed and I lost $10. But got on I did. Was almost pushed of at one of the following ststaions when a whole crowd tried to get off - some swearing at me....The Columbia University precinct is a nice area by the Hudson River, I arrived early so managed to walk over to Grants tomb and around some of the streets. Lovely architecture, well at least it stood out from some grey drab buildings.
I met Yanis in his office in the Interchurch building on 120th St. The subsequent 2.5 hrs was quite divergent. I also met Eliana from Millenium Global Villages for a short period. Yanis and I covered alot but key was the date of arrival and trip to Mekele and Hawzen. We settled on about 26 August to go to Addis Ababa and spend a week before meeting up with Yanis about Sep 2 and flying north on Sep 4. Where to stay initially in Addis -the Hilton - the Australian embassy is based there so a good choice. In Hawzen, the choice was really only the Gheralta Lodge otherwise a place in town. - Mud brick huts either way. Phone SIM card and USB dongle for internet of which the best service I am likely to get is e-mail. Transport will be supplied by the MGV team as I will spend 2-3 days in the villages around Koraro and 2-3 days in the office. The work load is high with Yanis mentioning that they stay back to 11 pm.
Hygiene is important - wash your hands with sanitizer even after shaking hands with someone - discretely of course.
I met Yanis in his office in the Interchurch building on 120th St. The subsequent 2.5 hrs was quite divergent. I also met Eliana from Millenium Global Villages for a short period. Yanis and I covered alot but key was the date of arrival and trip to Mekele and Hawzen. We settled on about 26 August to go to Addis Ababa and spend a week before meeting up with Yanis about Sep 2 and flying north on Sep 4. Where to stay initially in Addis -the Hilton - the Australian embassy is based there so a good choice. In Hawzen, the choice was really only the Gheralta Lodge otherwise a place in town. - Mud brick huts either way. Phone SIM card and USB dongle for internet of which the best service I am likely to get is e-mail. Transport will be supplied by the MGV team as I will spend 2-3 days in the villages around Koraro and 2-3 days in the office. The work load is high with Yanis mentioning that they stay back to 11 pm.
Hygiene is important - wash your hands with sanitizer even after shaking hands with someone - discretely of course.
Wednesday 11 May 2011
Training
I showed up in Philadelphia for Pulse training. While lodging downtown next to the business HQ, I took the train to Wynnewood to ALSF ( Alex's Lemonade Stand Foundation). At the station I found a young woman seemingly lost. A couple of quick questions - are you from GSK, are you here for Pulse training enabled us together to find ALSF. Ten others showed up from mostly GSK US but also GSK Canada. Introductions found that 5 of us were heading to Africa - Ethiopia, Uganda, Kenya, Mali and South Africa. the Pulse team and a trainer, Andrew Butler, took us through the logistics of the Pulse program, deployment, what an NGO is about and how we are to settle into our new environment in the field..............
Tuesday 26 April 2011
Starting out
Its been about 3 weeks since I found out that I was successful in my pulse application and partnered with a group based on my skills. Millenium Global Village sponsored by Earth Institute at Columbia University in NYC. My site - Koraro Ethiopia. A lot to digest - I had chosen Ethiopia because I wanted to explore the Rift Valley, explore the myth of Queen of Sheba, the Falashas, and of course help the people. Having seen on TV the famine of the 80's in Ethiopia it had been in the back of my mind how do you help such people in the face of nature. Now I have my chance. What was Ethiopia about, its people, daily life especially in the villages, amentities......so used to daily showers, running hot and cold water, sanitary conditions, supermarkets, what am I to expect?
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